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CQEMRIGHT DEPOSfT. 




JOSEPH G. BUTLER, Jr. 



MY FIRST TRIP 
ABROAD 

By JOSEPH G. BUTLER, Jr. 



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This book is affectionately dedicated 

to the memory of my wife, Harriet 

V. Butler, who accompanied me from 

start to finish on " My First 

Trip Abroad". 



DEC 27 i92l 



V CC1.A630982 



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PREFACE 

In Nineteen Hundred and Eight, I went abroad for the first 
time, accompanied by a portion of my family. 

During this journey, I took copious notes, secured many 
photographs and other illustrations of places visited. On my 
return, I wrote an account of the trip, entitled "My First Trip 
Abroad". At the time this was written, I had no intention 
whatever of publishing it, but after looking over the manuscript 
recently, I decided to have a limited edition printed for distribu- 
tion among relatives and friends. 

At the time the manuscript was written, there was no talk 
of war between the great powers of Europe, and if for no other 
reason, the impressions gained from military preparations then 
in evidence, seem now to warrant printed publication of the 
account of this first trip. 

The last chapter in this book, "A Day in Washington's 
Country" is reprinted from "Presidents I Have Seen and Known". 
The visit to the home of President Washington's ancestors was 
in the year 1911. The Sulgrave Manor has since been pur- 
chased and is now controlled by a Board of Governors, about 
equally divided between England and the United States. Their 
names appear at the end of this volume. 



Two Hundred copies of this edition have 

been printed of which this 

is number 



COPYRIGHT, 1921 

JOSEPH G. BUTLER. Jr. 

Youngstown, Ohio 



CONTENTS 



Chapter I— The Start 1 

First Glimpse of Europe 9 

Germany 11 

England 25 

Franco-British Exhibition Grounds. . 27 

Westminster Abbey 31 

-British Houses of Parliament 37 

-American Embassy 41 

-The Tower of London 43 

-Richmond Hill and Other Places of 

Interest 47 

-Temple Church 51 

-St. Paul's Cathedral 53 

-Charles Dickens 55 

-Leicester 59 

-Motoring Abroad 63 

-Stratford -on -Avon 67 

-Coventry — Kenilworth — Warwick ... 73 

-Bradgate Park — Belvoir Castle 81 

-Charnwood Forest 83 

-Eton College — Stoke Poges 85 

-London — Windsor Castle 93 

-Southampton 105 

-The Isle of Wight— Winchester Cathe- 
dral — Romney Abbey — Salisbury 

Cathedral Ill 

-Stonehenge — Salisbury Plain — The 
New Forest — Netley Abbey — Borne- 
mouth 121 

XXV— London Again— The Finish 129 



I- 

II- 

III- 

IV- 

V- 

VI- 

VII- 

VIII- 

IX- 

X- 

XI- 

XII- 

XIII- 

XIV- 

XV- 

XVI- 

XVII- 

XVIII- 

XIX- 

XX- 

XXI- 

XXII- 

XXIII- 



XXIV 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Joseph G. Butler, Jr. 
CHAPTER I— THE START 

ONE of the dreams of my life has been to go 
abroad. Business and family cares seemed 
to prevent the realization of this dream until 
Thursday, July 2, 1908. On that date, accompanied 
by Mrs. Butler, our eldest grandson John Willard 
Ford, and Miss Evelyn Cooper we boarded the 
Hamburg- American line steamer Amerika at Hoboken, 
N. J. At 11 a. m., the great ship was loosed from its 
moorings and we were soon on the broad Atlantic, 
headed for Germany. 

The Amerika is one of the finest passenger vessels 
afloat, not fast, but large, steady and comfortable. 
The boat is nearly 700 feet long and is filled up with 
all the comforts of home. 

The scene leaving the Hoboken dock was one to 
be remembered ; the morning was fine and the thousands 
of people who had come to bid their friends and relatives 
goodbye made the occasion one largely of joy, and some 
sorrow. As the ship pulled out, bands played, flags and 
handkerchiefs waved and fluttered in the breeze, and 
this continued until the crowd were out of sight and 
hearing. One jolly party followed the steamer for 
miles in a tug boat, bidding adieu to friends aboard, 
determined to have a last lingering look. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

One of the pleasures of a foreign trip is the receiving 
of ship letters sent by friends and which are distributed 
quite soon after sailing. We were fortunate in receiving 
a number of letters and telegrams, all of which added to 
our happiness. We were also favored with several 
baskets of fruit and champagne sent by our good friends. 

On board we met some acquaintances, and people 
we knew of but had not met — the former being Mr. 
W. S. Pilling and family of Philadelphia, and the latter 
Mr. Max Smith, a musical critic of New York and his 
sister, Miss Gertrude Norman Smith, a talented girl 
and a composer of music. All these friends proved 
companionable, and with other acquaintances formed 
later on the voyage, added much to the pleasure and 
profit of the trip. 

Among the good people we met and liked, and who 
apparently liked us, were Mrs. Donnelli, a charming 
middle aged lady, of perhaps under forty, a charity 
worker; Mrs. Spencer and Mrs. Scott, two young 
widows of New York, who, with Mrs. Donnelli, sat 
directly opposite us at the table. These three proved 
particularly attractive and considerate. 

Also there sat at our table, nearly opposite, 
Professor Cloudsley Brereton, an author and educator, 
and something of a character as well, adding consider- 
able to our amusement during the voyage. 

We also met Dr. John S. Billings, a war veteran and 
noted surgeon during the Civil war, now in charge of 
the Public Libraries in New York, and Mr. John L. 
Cadwallader, a noted New York corporation lawyer. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We met others and became acquainted as people 
do on voyages of this kind, but those named above 
impressed us favorably and proved good friends on the 
voyage, and I anticipate much pleasure in meeting at 
least some of them, hereafter. 

The weather during the entire trip across the 
ocean was fine, and as a matter of fact, continued so 
during the entire voyage, from the time we left New 
York until starting on the return voyage. 

Out on the broad ocean, with the roomy decks, 
two extending around the ship, one is reminded of the 
Board Walk at Atlantic City. During the day and 
until late at night, hundreds pace the deck for fresh air 
and excercise, as is done at Atlantic City by those who 
walk instead of using a rolling chair. 

The discipline aboard the ship seemed perfect, 
under the direction of Captain Knuth, a typical good- 
natured German, and his admirable organization. The 
Marconi system of wireless telegraphy is installed in 
the boat and daily communication had with foreign 
shores and other vessels on the ocean. A joint German 
and American post office is maintained aboard and 
letters are handled and mailed when opportunity offers, 
the same as ashore. The use of stamps is broadened 
by new post office regulations. 

The people in the second class cabins seemed a 
jolly lot and many quite as well -appearing as the 
majority of first class passengers. The dancing to the 
Merry Widow Waltz on the second cabin deck was a 
daily occurrence, watched with interest by the first 

3 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

class passengers, and enjoyed to the fullest extent by 
the second class people, spectators and participants. 

My first experience with German money was 
rather odd and novel, but one soon learns the difference 
and handles it like a veteran. In my own case I 
trusted largely to the recipients of the coin. 

"The Glorious Fourth" occurred on board, during 
our second day out and was duly and truly celebrated. 
In anticipation of the celebration — being something of 
an event — I had purchased before I left New York, a 
couple of fine and fairly good sized American flags. I 
also had with me a number of small flags. The tables 
for dinner were patriotically decorated and our partic- 
ular table was "the observed of all observers", our two 
silk flags flying at the head. The bands played 
patriotic airs and some of the passengers sang patriotic 
songs. 

Some people, ourselves included, tried to form a 
procession of Americans to march around the ship, 
but this did not succeed. Not being a veteran traveler, 
I did not feel like taking the lead, and no one else 
offered. 

The celebration however, was a complete success 
and wound up with a grand ball on the upper deck, 
which was walled in with canvas for the occasion. 

About this time I was introduced to Captain Knuth 
and found him a most agreeable gentleman. As the 
weather was fine and his duties consequently not 
onerous, he had time and devoted much of it to the 
comfort and pleasure of the passengers. 

4 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The fourth day out was Sunday, and I expected of 
course, some sort of religious service would be held, 
but nothing of the kind occurred and upon inquiry the 
Captain remarked that there were too many varieties 
of worshipers aboard to harmonize. As a large per- 
centage of the passengers were of the Hebrew persuasion 
I thought the remark significant. 

Up to this time, we had not, to my surprise, passed 
any vessels. I supposed this would be at least an 
hourly incident, but I had forgotten the size of the 
ocean and the fact that each steamer has a separate 
course, but at dinner time the alarm was sounded and 
a steamer reported passing. Everyone rushed from 
the table to see the sight. The vessel was quite large 
and proved to be the Lorraine. The Captain returned 
to the table, apparently somewhat disgusted and 
remarked "only a tramp", thereby meaning, a tramp 
steamer. 

On the fifth day out, being Monday, we met and 
passed another steamer. It was quite early in the 
morning and I was unable to learn the name, but it was 
a fine sight. 

A newspaper is published on board and distributed 
gratis. This paper gives the daily log and any 
important wireless dispatches. 

Upon consultation with Mr. Pilling, an old ocean 
traveler, he suggested the following schedule of fees 
for servants aboard. As this is the subject of consider- 
able dispute, the schedule is herein reproduced and is 
substantially the sums I paid at the end of the voyage. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Room stewards $3.75 each person 

Stewardess 2 . 50 for two people 

Table steward 5 . 00 for two people 

Bath steward 2 . 50 for each person 

Deck steward 2 . 50 for two people 

Boots 1 . 00 for each person 

Library if much used 2 . 50 for each person 

On the sixth day we passed a vessel from New 
Orleans, this time not a "tramp". It proved to be the 
Comedian bound for Liverpool, loaded with cotton, 
a very large ship. It was about 9 p. m. and signals 
were exchanged and the event celebrated by a discharge 
of fire works, principally from our boat. It was a really 
brilliant sight to see a somewhat liberal display of 
fireworks on mid-ocean. 

The weather became colder but continued clear. 
The first bird appeared, showing our near approach to 
land. It proved to be a frigate gull and for one single 
bird, created considerable excitement and was cheered 
and encouraged. 

Betting by this time on the daily run of the 
steamer began to be quite lively and considerable 
money changed hands. On an investment of $15 one 
man cleaned up $430. It is a good deal of a lottery. 
I supposed one of the principal occupations aboard 
ocean steamers was poker playing but little or nothing 
of the kind occurred during the voyage on the Amerika. 
On the seventh day out, July 8, a few more birds 
put in an appearance and a few dolphins and other 
large denizens of the deep showed themselves, but not 
in such numbers or variety as I had anticipated. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

THE CAPTAIN'S DINNER 
This is an event of considerable importance on 
many of the liners and is given special prominence on 
the first class Hamburg-American ships. 

At 7 p. m. on Wednesday, July 8, all first class 
passengers received a special notice of the proposed 
event. The dining room was finely decorated with 
German and American flags and the tables were also 
properly strewn with miniature flags and other emblems 
of patriotism, both American and German, presenting 
a handsome appearance. 

. The band played patriotic airs of both nations, 
the waiters beamed as an unusual number of bottles 
of wine were ordered and opened for this special 
occasion, and all present were smiling and happy. 
Near the close of the dinner, the lights were turned out 
for a brief period and when again turned on, showed a 
procession of the employees, dressed fantastically and 
marching around the room. The procession included 
the regulation "Uncle Sam", a typical German, dressed 
something like a keg of beer, and a veritable Sambo, 
dressed as a dandy darkey, twirling a cane and singing 
coon songs. The whole affair was creditable and ended 
by a grand ball on the Kaiser deck, walled in with 
canvas, the same as on the evening of July 4. 

The following day was rainy and colder. Vessels 
appeared in the offing and other signs of land were in 
evidence, such as several lighthouses, fishing smacks 
plying their avocation and a plentiful number of sea 
gulls flying around. 

7 



CHAPTER II— FIRST GLIMPSE OF EUROPE 

Jk T 8 p. m. the first land was sighted, the Scilly 
t\ Islands, and preparations were begun for land- 
jC A» ing London passengers at Plymouth. This did 
not materialize until after midnight and none of our 
party waited for the event except John Willard. He 
loyally remained up to see his friends off and lost nearly 
a night's sleep in his efforts to be polite as the actual 
embarkation did not take effect, or at least was not 
completed, until 4 o'clock the following morning. 

Notwithstanding the lateness, or rather the earli- 
ness of the hour, the band played and the noise and 
confusion went on. The Pillings and Mr. Max Smith 
left us at Plymouth. 

At 5 a.m. the eighth day, the great liner started 
again for Cherbourg and the final destination — 
Hamburg. As the Normandy coast was reached the 
panorama before us reminded me of one of Monchablon's 
paintings. Villages and farms and clumps of trees were 
dotted here and there, presenting a picturesque scene 
with the variegated artistic coloring. 

As the boat neared Cherbourg, a warlike appear- 
ance, much in contrast with the quiet peaceful look of 
the Normandy coast, presented itself. The forts and 
embattlements of Cherbourg are quite persuasive of 
the far off — Universal Peace. 



CHAPTER III— GERMANY 

ON this Friday evening I gave a little farewell 
private dinner to our friends whom we had met 
and enjoyed during the voyage. The guests 
were Mrs. Donnelli and Miss Smith. We had previ- 
ously given a like function and had as our guests Mrs. 
Scott, Mrs. Spencer and Professor Brereton. In the 
evening Dr. Sinclair Smith of New York entertained a 
company of which I was one, with "Reminiscences of 
Dickens". This was one of the pleasant incidents of 
the voyage. 

Saturday, July 11 was our final day on the boat. 
Our packing was completed early in the morning, the 
clocks were changed for the last time, making a 
difference of six hours between Hamburg and Youngs- 
town. We passed through the North Sea and soon 
the German coast appeared. As it was to be my first 
landing on foreign soil, I was considerably stirred up 
over the event. We settled with the stewards and 
soon the tender appeared to land us at Cuxhaven, the 
German landing, preliminary to reaching Hamburg. 
After leaving the tender we passed a solid line of faces 
on each side, reaching from the beginning of the landing 
place to the Custom House. The faces were stolid in 
appearance and while not unfriendly, did not appeal 
to me as a very warm welcome to the Fatherland. 

My first step on German soil was on a rough stone 
pavement and when we reached the Custom House, 
all traces of sentiment disappeared. We had seven 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

pieces of baggage and they came from the tender in 
seven different vans. However, after feeing nearly 
everybody on the platform and with considerable 
patience, the agony was over. Some of the trunks 
were opened and curiously examined and at the end of 
two hours from the time of landing we were ready to 
take the train for Hamburg. 

My first sight of a Continental train excited the 
risibles. Little dinky cars, some of them no larger than 
the original Brier Hill street cars. This was a Special 
Train De Luxe and ran fast. We passed thatched 
roof houses, antiquated wind mills, storks, and irri- 
gation everywhere. I was impressed by the neat 
appearance of the farms, and the fine looking cattle, 
also the smooth road-bed upon which the train was 
running, and the absence of trees. The houses were 
either all brick or stone or stucco, not a wooden building 
in sight. 

We procured a conveyance and were driven to the 
Esplanade, a first class Ritz Hotel. 

We were accompanied from Cuxhaven to Hamburg 
by Miss Smith and a Grand Opera singer, Madame 
Stone. As they were to leave on a late train, John 
Willard, with my assistance, went to the station late 
in the evening, and saw them off. 

After the recovery of John's lost suit case, we 
returned to the hotel and slept my first night in 
Germany, the sleep of the tired, if not of the just. 

HAMBURG 

The main office of the Hamburg line is at Hamburg, 

12 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

and a few words about the Hamburg-American line 
will not be out of place. It is one of the old established 
steamship corporations dating back 60 years. The 
original fleet consisted of three sailing vessels. Its 
present fleet numbers nearly 400 with an aggregate 
tonnage of 1,000,000 tons. 

The first trip from Hamburg to New York was 
made half a century since in a three-masted sailing 
vessel, 700 tons burthen. The Amerika has a tonnage 
of 23,000 tons, a marked contrast. The company 
sends its steamers to all parts of the world and in 
addition to its splendid transatlantic service, makes a 
specialty of tourist trips to the Mediterranean, the 
Orient, and in short, the uttermost parts of the earth. 
Incidentally, it is a source of keen regret to me that the 
American flag flies so little in foreign ports, and that the 
greater proportion of our foreign traffic, both passenger 
and freight, is done with foreign bottoms, earring alien 
flags. 

Hamburg is a large city and is famous the world 
over for its being the only place where wild animals are 
bought and sold to any great extent. Hagenbecks is 
a household word. The original Hagenbeck is dead 
and a fine monument is erected to his memory in the 
Hagenbeck park which we visited. The business is 
carried on by his heirs and successors. 

This is the supply depot. Animals are furnished 
to menageries and zoological gardens. The world 
agents and hunters are at work everywhere, gathering 
in fresh supplies. 

13 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The Hagenbeck park covers a large area and 
contains thousands of wild animals, and is an interesting 
place to visit. We saw a wonderful performance, some 
of the animals doing tricks and performing stunts 
almost incredible in wild creatures. 

A gigantic statue of Bismark is one of the attrac- 
tions of Hamburg, including the pedestal it is fully 75 
feet high. 

We walked through the botanical gardens, which 
is one of the attractions of the city and is really fine, 
and has the advantage of being in the heart of the city. 
We procured a carriage and drove through the residence 
portion of the city. We saw some fine places, much 
attention being paid to the gardens and lawns. Flowers 
are everywhere. Most of the residences have outside 
window boxes and these are filled with beautiful flowers 
and clinging vines. 

My attention was here first arrested to the custom 
of walking arm in arm, which seemed prevalent all 
over Germany. 

We drove to the Farhaus for dinner. This is the 
Claremont of Hamburg, and a really artistic place, 
largely out of doors and with a fine military band. We 
had a good dinner, but when we were ready to return 
it was raining and in spite of the vigorous efforts of 
attaches of the restaurant, we were unable to procure 
a carriage. Some lively telephoning was done, and 
each time the answer came back, "We can't send a car- 
riage because it is raining". As it was getting late, we 
made a break, in the driving storm for the boat landing, 

14 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

boarded a small boat, crossed the river, found a lonely 
cab and reached the Esplanade, pretty well drenched. 

Monday, July 13, we left Hamburg for Berlin, at 
noon, traveling first class, which we afterwards dis- 
covered was a waste of money, as we could have gone 
quite comfortably, as most people do, second or third 
class. It was haying time, and as the train sped along, 
we could see the farmers, or rather peasants, harvesting 
the hay crop. There appeared to be as many women 
in the fields at work as men. 

We arrived in Berlin at 4 p. m. collected our 
luggage, employed two carriages and were soon at the 
Adlon, the best hotel we found in all our travels. We 
were met by the manager in person, and by him, 
conducted to our rooms. The inner court is a beauti- 
ful garden. We had a suite of rooms good enough for 
royalty, and as compared with the Waldorf, quite 
inexpensive. The manager of the hotel and the 
assistant manager wore Prince Albert suits and high 
hats, and they try to make each particular guest 
believe they are giving him or her their individual 
attention. All the employees wear a light blue livery 
and are polite to excess, the most of them remove their 
hats and greet you passing by. We were also intro- 
duced to Mr. Adlon, the proprietor of the hotel. 

We got a taxicab and drove about the city to 
familiar places. Mrs. Butler having lived in Berlin 
for more than a year in 1889 and 1890. The seeing of 
familiar locations after the lapse of so many years was 
quite exhilarating to Mrs. Butler, and the remainder 
of the party caught the infection. 

15 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

On Tuesday, July 14, we hired an automobile and 
went to Potsdam. We visited Sans Souci palace, 
built by Frederick the Great. We were shown through 
the entire palace and I had my first experience of being 
personally conducted. We first saw the Voltaire room, 
so called, filled with relics of the great unbeliever. 
Porcelain flowers, decorations on the walls, his clock, 
bust in marble, an autograph letter, etc. 

The next room was the bedroom of William the 
Second and his wife. Then Queen Louise's room, 
containing her writing desk, clock, etc. Then the 
Speene Saal (dining room) round room with solid block 
of carrarra marble. 

We were then taken to the music room of Frederick 
the Great. He was a composer of music and the 
music stand, on which lies an original composition, is 
shown just as he had left it. 

We saw the clock which was stopped the moment 
of his death, 2:20 p.m. and has not been disturbed 
since, also the original mask taken after his death. 

We were then conducted to the reception room 
with alcove where he died, sitting in his chair by the 
window. The chair is now in Berlin. The room 
contained also pictures of his mother and governess, 
above the bed. 

Another room contained the state bed, where 
visiting royalty were entertained. 

The ceiling and side walls of the library are made 
from cedar brought from the Holy Land, the ' 'Cedars 

16 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

of Lebanon". The library contains nearly 2,000 books 
all in French, showing the influence of Voltaire. The 
library also contains four busts brought from Pompeii, 
one being the bust of Homer and another of Apollo. 

We were then conducted to the long gallery, 
which is hung with paintings and filled with statues. 

After our dismissal from the palace, we went to 
the historic wind mill, now owned by the government, 
but in Frederick the Great's time, owned by an old 
miller, who refused to sell it. The story is too well 
known to repeat. 

After a walk about the grounds, we lunched at the 
Automobile Club in Potsdam and met our first 
American acquaintances, Mr. D. B. Meacham of 
Cincinnati, who was traveling with his family. Our 
return to the city through the woods, proved a delightful 
ride and I was forcibly impressed with seeing so many 
fine parks and so much woods, and so many green spots 
almost in the heart of the city. 

We dined at Kaminsky's, a noted cafe, and in the 
evening, with John Willard, I visited Kolbs Garden, 
a noted place for distributing beer, and with the ad- 
ditional attraction of a fine military band, playing by 
permission of the military authorities. 

Wednesday, July 16, we started on a shopping 
tour and succeeded in parting with some of our money. 

At noon I called upon the American ambassador, 
or rather called at the American embassy. The 
Ambassador was not in and I left my card. Upon our 
return to the hotel I found his card, which ended this 

17 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

international affair, or would have ended it, but for 
the advice of a friend at court, as will appear later. 

The present ambassador is Mr. David Jayne Hill, 
a trained diplomat of long experience, and the subject 
of many disagreeable newspaper articles and cable 
correspondence. 

THE BERLIN MUSEUM 

In the afternoon we visited the Berlin Museum, 
or rather the old part of it. The rooms we saw were 
filled principally with old plaster casts and reproduc- 
tions of but little interest. We saw, however, before 
returning to the hotel, some helmets dating back 600 
years B. C. We went to Rheingold's for dinner, 
another of the noted Berlin cafes. 

Thursday morning I called upon Mr. A. M. 
Thackara, the American consul general. Found him 
a very agreeable gentleman and I judge, quite compe- 
tent for the position. I asked him for some German 
statistical information, which he promised to supply 
later on. Meantime, Mr. Thackara telephoned his 
wife and insisted that we should meet her at the 
American Women's Club, of which she is the head. I 
hustled around with a taxicab, gathered up the remain- 
der of the party and we were there at the appointed 
time. Mrs. Thackara is a charming, educated woman, 
the daughter of our great war general, William T. 
Sherman. She proved to be a valuable acquaintance, 
and the ladies were delighted with her. She is doing a 
great deal for Americans in Germany, in a social way. 
She is a Catholic and I think rather proud of the fact. 

18 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We lunched at the Adlon and met the genial, 
breezy, almost world known John W. Gates. His 
greeting was extremely cordial, and I was glad to see 
him. 

In the afternoon, acting under the advice of our 
newfound friend, Consul General Thackara, I called, 
with John Willard, upon the American ambassador. 
We found him a plain, every day business man, and 
we were treated with extreme cordiality. He remem- 
bered meeting me at President McKinley's funeral. 
His means are limited and he will find it difficult to 
follow in the footsteps of his prodigal predecessor- 
Charlemagne Tower, the personal friend of Emperor 
William. 

In the afternoon we visited the Zoological gardens, 
which, after seeing Hagenbeck's at Hamburg, were 
somewhat disappointing. We saw two old battered 
elephants, one of them looked as if he dated back to 
Noah's ark, assuming there were elephants in this first 
collection of animals. 

Upon our return we drove through the Thier 
Garden, one of Mrs. Butler's favorite haunts during 
previous visits, and stopped for some time admiring the 
beautiful statue of Queen Louise. It is certainly the 
finest marble statue I saw during our trip. 

For our dinner we drove to Hellansee, a most 
beautiful circular terrace, overlooking a lake and river, 
and a garden filled with flower beds, the flowers in full 
bloom. We had an outside table overlooking all this 
artistic display. The cafe has accommodations for 

19 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

4,000 diners at one time and every seat was taken. 
We were at first refused a table, but a small shekel 
placed in the right spot got us a choice location, the 
chair having been turned up and the table marked 
"engaged". We found, after some delay, an English 
waiter, so we ordered and ate a fine dinner. 

As I wanted to see something of Berlin I engaged 
the commissionaire of the hotel, and after our return to 
the Adlon, I went out with him to several cafes and 
dance halls. I saw nothing extraordinary, or at least, 
nothing to compare with life and gayety of the noted 
New York after-theatre restaurants and returned to 
the hotel somewhat disappointed. 

On Friday we visited Fraulien Volckman, an old 
friend of Mrs. Butler and other members of the family. 
She was very cordial and went with us to the American 
church in Berlin. We felt quite interested in this, as 
Mrs. Butler had raised quite a sum of money to assist 
in buying the church property many years previous. 
We could find no trace of this donation and the pastor 
was not in evidence, being away on a vacation. The 
church is very interesting and I believe unique as the 
only strictly American church in foreign cities built and 
furnished by American money. The dedication of the 
church, some years since, was a notable event. There 
is a free library and reading room connected with the 
church. The present pastor is Rev. I. F. Dickie, D. D. 

In the afternoon of July 20, we visited the National 
Gallery. There is but one example in the collection 
painted by an American, Gari Melchers of Detroit. 

20 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Saw a fine portrait by Zugel, a German. We were 
interested in this as we have in our gallery at home one 
of his paintings, "Ox and Sheep". 

We were all more impressed with the portraits 
than anything else in the various rooms. 

In the evening I gave a dinner at the Adlon to 
Consul General Thackara. There were present: — 

A. M. Thackara 

John Willard Ford 

Miss Evelyn Cooper 

Mrs. Harriet V. Butler 

Joseph G. Butler, Jr. 
The dinner was in the main dining room, the table 
was beautifully decorated with flowers and colored 
lights and all present voted the affair a success. Toasts 
were drunk to Americans absent and present. The 
autograph signatures of all present were written on the 
reverse side of the menu card. 

Saturday, July 18 was our last day in Berlin and 
we made the most of it. Fraulien Volckman called at 
10 a.m. and accompanied us to the Kaiser Frederick 
museum, which contains principally old masters of the 
usual assortment. 

We then paid our respects to the present Emperor 
William's palace, the Kaiser himself being absent from 
the city, yachting. We paid for admission tickets and 
were assembled in an outer court until a sufficient 
number gathered to warrant a guide. We walked up 
a sloping, winding stairway without steps until, we 
reached the larger reception room. Here all the 

21 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

pilgrims were furnished with an immense pair of woolen 
sandals, which we were requested to pull on over our 
shoes. The party presented a comic appearance 
trudging and sliding around with these mammoth- 
signs for a shoe store. We saw everything in the 
palace except the private living rooms. The oil 
paintings of noted military men and of historic military 
events were much in evidence and were fine examples 
painted by famous German military painters. The 
decorating of the different rooms is on a magnificent 
scale and much of it quite artistic. 

We lunched with Fraulien Volckman, or rather, 
she lunched with us at the Kaiser Keller. 

In the evening John Willard, Mrs. Butler and Miss 
Cooper went to the opera and heard Tannhauser in 
German. I strolled in Kolb Garden and listened to the 
splendid military band, which was more to my under- 
standing and liking. 

During an intermission of the opera, I was 
attracted by some apparently fine singing from the 
stage of the beer garden. I hurried forward with 
scores of others and found it was one of the mechanical 
musical contrivances, discoursing airs "A la Edison". 
It sounded good and I was fooled with the others. 

I noticed in Berlin all the houses are substantially 
built, there being none of wood and no tenements. 
There are flats and compartments for poor people and 
people of moderate means, but no shanties or shacks 
such as dot America all over. The pavements are all 
good, many asphalt and the majority stone, and kept 

22 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

in thorough repair. The repairs are continuous and 
done at night time thus the streets are always in good 
condition. 

Sunday morning we left Berlin for London, via 
"Flushing Route", and we were flushed all right before 
we got through with the journey. 

We started at 11 :52 a.m. on the best train we had 
seen, but still not to be compared with ours. At the 
stations when parting, the women shake hands and the 
men kiss each other. The train had a dinky dining car 
and we fared pretty well. 

The country we passed through was attractive and 
in many places harvesting seemed to be going on, the 
same as week days. However, it was a long wearisome 
ride. We reached Flushing (in Holland) 11 p.m. and 
embarked on the steamer Kaiserin Wilhelmina, a 
staunch craft, but no good in the storm which was on 
when we started and which continued all night. We 
had fine cabins, and all the facilities for sea-sickness. 
The ladies had the service of a steward and stewardess. 
John Willard and the subscriber played a "rubber" 
without assistance, in the stateroom. But all things 
have an end. The channel was crossed and we were 
still alive to tell the tale and reached Queensboro, 
England at 6 a.m. The disembarking from the boat 
and the examination of luggage was quickly done. I 
knew we had nothing contraband, gave the official a fee 
to expedite matters and it was soon over and we entered 
the train bound for London. 



23 



CHAPTER IV— ENGLAND 

THERE was no sentiment about the planting of 
my foot for the first time on English soil . Every - 
thing was subordinate to the thoughts of the 
miserable night we had just passed. 

Our arrival in London was a quiet affair. John 
Willard had been in London before, and knew the ropes. 
We found a four-wheeler, big enough to tackle our pile 
of luggage, which the ladies occupied, while John 
Willard and I got a separate conveyance. We drove 
to Morley 's supposing we had rooms engaged there. 
There was some misunderstanding about it, and to 
save parley and time, we all drove away in quest of 
other quarters. One of the pleasures I had looked 
forward to was shattered. I wanted to put up at a 
typical old fashioned English hotel. Morley's had been 
recommended by an old and valuable friend, Mr. P. J. 
Benbow, former manager of the Otis Steel Company, 
Cleveland, Ohio, the stock of which is owned in London. 
I promised Mr. Benbow I would go to this hotel. 
Morley's filled this bill but was not for us. We drove 
to the Grand quite near. John was cute enough to 
run ahead and tell them we were turned away from 
Morley's. This settled the matter and we were, after 
one change, given a special price on an apartment with 
parlor, hall, three sleeping rooms, bath and lavatory, 
which was our home for two weeks. The same 
accommodations at the Waldorf would cost $50 . 00 
per day. The price we paid was $13.75 per diem, 
American money. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

LONDON 

Our first view of London was from the top of an 
omnibus, a democratic way of going about, and one 
very much to my liking. We climbed up the first 
omnibus at Charing Cross, and rather singular, the 
first thing that attracted my attention was the Golden 
Cross Hotel. This is where Mr. Pickwick first landed 
and is where he had the controversy with the cabman. 
We went by the Bank of England, St. Paul's and other 
historic places, such as Mansion House, Chancery Lane, 
etc. 

A visit to Parr's bank resulted in getting our first 
letters from home, which were eagerly read and ex- 
changed. 

We spent a good part of the day in settling down, 
unpacking and getting our bearings. In the evening, 
I went with John Willard to Hick's theatre, my first 
introduction to an English playhouse. The attraction 
was "The Waltz Dream". The best seats are called 
stalls and we had two good ones. Was surprised at 
the high price paid for good seats to London entertain- 
ment places, very much higher than in New York and in 
addition, one is rather forced to purchase a program 
from the lady usher in attendance. There Was a very 
fashionable audience and decollete dresses were in 
evidence up to the full limit. 

We were pleased to find a part of the Kitson 
family in the Grand hotel. 



26 




CHAPTER V 

THE FRANCO-BRITISH EXHIBITION GROUNDS 

UR first day of sight-seeing was to the Franco- 
British exhibition grounds. We were fortunate 
enough to see some of the best athletic perform- 
ances. The stadium is where the people gathered to wit- 
ness the contests and has a seating capacity of 80,000 and 
built after the manner of such places in ancient Rome. 
The games consisted of running matches, jumping, swim- 
ming, high diving, and many other forms of amusement. 

We went through the Woman's building and saw 
many things of interest, more particularly the original 
carriage used by Florence Nightingale all through the 
Crimean war. 

We then visited the Irish village, an enclosure of 
several acres, exhibiting Ireland's various industries, 
not over-looking the Blarney stone. We were especial- 
ly interested in the McKinley cottage. 

It will be in order to note that President 
McKinley's father was born in Ireland and the cottage 
we saw and went through was a reproduction in part 
of the original house inhabited by President McKinley's 
grandfather. I quote from the catalogue, the official 
description : — 

"THE McKINLEY COTTAGE— Turning sharply 
to the right after passing into the village is the 
McKinley cottage, famous as the home of the ancestors 
of the ill-fated American president. Charming in its 
rustic simplicity, it is a typical example of an Irish 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

yoeman's dwelling. It is practically a re-erection of 
the original cottage, the doors, windows, rafters, stairs, 
and many other features having been brought direct 
from the ancient home of Conagher, Ballymoney, Co. 
Antrim. The McKinley cottage is one of the most 
interesting features in Bally maclinton, and visitors 
may purchase picture postcards of it, as well as copies 
of the 'Life of President McKinley' by T. C. Meech, 
price 1/6." 

The Irish village is being promoted under the 
auspices and patronage of Lady Aberdeen. Her 
husband, Lord Aberdeen, is Lord Lieutenant General 
of Ireland and the fountain head of Irish affairs. 

The cottage contained some relics said to have 
belonged to the McKinleys, viz. a turf spade used by 
the grandfather and the original turf fireplace, hangers, 
etc. I had my doubts about the genuineness of some 
of these relics and spoke to Ambassador Reid regarding 
same. His letter is herein reproduced and is of interest 
in this connection. 

AMERICAN EMBASSY 
LONDON 

.July 29th '08 
Dear Mr. Butler: — 

I have just succeeded in getting the 
letter from Lady Aberdeen hunted up. What she says 
about the McKinley cottage is as follows: — 

"Probably you will be present when 
the King visits the Exhibition on Tuesday. If you 
have an opportunity of favouring the Irish Village and 

28 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

the McKinley old home in Ireland, you will be doing a 
great kindness. Messrs. Brown of Bonaghmore who 
are running the Village, are splendid people and more- 
over, they are to give all the profits made at the Village 
to the Anti-Tuberculosis Campaign here. So you see 
why I am interested apart from the Irish Industries, 
and the King's visit to the McKinley cottage, which 
would doubtless bring lots of visitors." 

Evidently Lady Aberdeen accepted 
the McKinley cottage as genuine, and it seems scarcely 
probable that the Lord Lieutenant of Ireland or his 
wife could have been deceived on such a subject. I 
hope this note may not be too late for your purpose. 

Yours sincerely, 
(Signed) WHITELAW REID 
Joseph G. Butler, Jr., Esq. 
Grand Hotel, 

London." 
We spent the entire day on the exhibition grounds 
and in the evening had a call from Miss Hilda Kitson 
and her father, Lord Airdale, formerly Sir James 
Kitson. Sir James was with the British Iron and Steel 
Institute on its visit to America in 1890 and I happened 
to be on the entertainment committee. His daughter, 
Miss Hilda, is a very good friend of our eldest daughter, 
Mrs. Ford. Miss Hilda is a genuine English girl, 
highly educated and added much to our pleasure while 
at the Grand hotel. Lord Airdale was most gracious 
and good naturedly corrected and overlooked a blunder 
I made in his name. 

29 



CHAPTER VI— WESTMINSTER ABBEY 

ON Wednesday, the 22nd, we visited Westminster 
Abbey. Any attempt to describe the place his- 
torically and otherwise would expand into vol- 
umes. I will therefore, only record what we saw, with 
some incidental information. Wewere fortunatein secur- 
ing a competent guide, which is absolutely essential. 
Verger Vickers was our chaperon. 

The original building dates back more than 1000 
years. The actual construction of the Abbey as it 
now stands covers a period of five centuries. 

In order to have a thorough understanding of 
Westminster Abbey, Dean Stanley's admirable work 
should be read. We were of course, much interested in 
the Poet's corner. Browning and Tennyson lie side 
by side and there also are buried the remains of Chaucer 
and Dryden. The former lived and wrote the Canter- 
bury Tales in the fourteenth century. Also we noticed 
the resting places of Ben Jonson, the friend of Shake- 
speare, Edmund Spencer, author of the "Faerie Queene" 
dedicated to Queen Elizabeth, Samuel Butler, the 
author of "Hubibras", John Milton, author of "Paradise 
Lost". 

There are also memorials in the Poet's corner 
erected to the memory of Southy, Longfellow, Burns, 
Goldsmith and many others. A beautiful tablet to the 
memory of Milton was furnished and paid for by the 
late George W. Childs of Philadelphia. 

In the North transept are buried among many 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

others, William Pitt, Earl of Chatham. He was prime 
minister when our Declaration of Independence was 
declared in 1776, Henry Gratton, the early defender of 
Irish Rights, Lord Palmerston, William Murray, Lord 
Chief Justice of England, Sir Robert Peel, Disraeli, 
the Earl of Beaconsfield, Gladstone who opposed the 
North during the Civil War. Beside the graves of 
Palmerston and Gladstone their wives are buried. 

In the west aisle lies the body of Warren Hastings 
and memorials are erected in the same aisle to many 
others. I am only recording the names of those famous 
in history and thoroughly known as such. 

In the belfry tower are the remains of Charles 
James Fox, the friend of America during our struggle 
for liberty. There is also buried here Major General 
Gordon, better known as Chinese Gordon. 

In the west end, William Pitt, the younger, is 
buried. He was the son of the Great Pitt, and was 
himself prime minister nearly fifty years. In the west 
end is also the remains of Major John Andre. 
NORTH AISLE 

In this aisle, side by side, lie the remains of Sir 
John Frederick Herschel, the great , astronomer and 
Darwin, the great scientist and author of "The Origin 
of Species". 

George Peabody, the famous philanthropist, was 
for a time buried in Westminster Abbey, but his 
remains were removed to America in 1869. Living- 
stone, the great Africa explorer and Robert Stephenson, 
the renowned engineer, are close together. 

32 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Sir Isaac Newton, the great scientist, who dis- 
covered the law of gravitation, is among the number of 
distinguished dead. 

There is also near the Poet's corner, what might 
be termed "A Musicians' Corner", for here are buried 
Handel, the great composer of "The Messiah", Michael 
Balfe, the Irish composer and a fine bust of Jenny Lind. 

Also in this section are buried David Garrick, the 
great actor, Sheridan, the great dramatist, author of 
"The Rivals" and "The School for Scandal". Both of 
these plays have survived more than a hundred years 
and are still popular. 

Charles Dickens, author of Pickwick Papers, lies 
near Sir Henry Irving. 

Thomas Parr, the oldest since Methuselah is 
buried here. He lived to be 152 years old, the fact 
being well authenticated. He was the father of chil- 
dren born after he was 100 years old. He lived through 
the reign of ten sovereigns. 

THE SOUTH AMBULATORY 

The Chapel of Edmund contains the remains of 
many noted people from 1200 down to three and four 
hundred years later. The Chapel of St. Nicholas 
contains the remains of many famous for their connec- 
tion with the ancestry of English sovereigns, such as the 
Duchess of Northumberland, Countess of Oxford, 
Duchess of Somerset, Sir George Villers and Mary 
Beaumont, parents of the Duke of Buckingham. 
CHAPEL OF HENRY VII 

This portion of the Abbey contains the remains 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

of many of England and Scotland's kings and queens. 
Countess of Lennox 
Mary, Queen of Scots 
Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia 
Margaret Beauford 
Charles II 
Queen Mary 
Queen Anne 
Henry VII 
James I 
Cromwell 
Queen Elizabeth. 
Other chapels contain the remains of General 
James Wolfe, the hero of Quebec. 
James Watt, engineer 
Admiral Saunders of Quebec fame 
Sir Humphry Davy, inventor of safety lamp 
Mrs. Siddons, the great actress 
Thomas Betterton, a celebrated tragedian, 

eighteenth century 
John Broughton, a noted pugilist 
General John Burgoyne, commander of the 

British forces in America, surrendered 

to General Gates of Saratoga. 
Saint Edward's chapel is the chapel of the kings. 
Here are buried: 
Edward the Confessor, who reigned from 

1042 to 1065 
Queen Editha, wife of Edward the Confessor 
Good Queen Maude, died 1118 

34 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Edward I, born 1239, died 1307 
Henry III, born 1206, died 1272 
Elizabeth Tudor, died 1495, daughter of 

Henry VII 
Eleanor of Castile, died 1290, first wife of 

Edward I 
Henry V born 1388, died 1422, the hero of 

Agincourt 
Katherine of Valois, Queen of Henry V 
Phillipa, wife of Edward III died 1369 
Edward III, born 1312, died 1377 
Richard II, born 1366, died 1394. 
We saw the wax effigies not usually shown to 
visitors. 

Last, but not least — we saw the Coronation chair 
used from the thirteenth century until the present time. 
The chair is of wood but in the center is a stone fixed 
with clamps, said to date back 700 years B. C. 

Our visit to the Abbey was most interesting and 
without doubt, the place of the greatest importance in 
the history of the British empire. More kings and 
queens are crowned here. For centuries, the monarchs 
of England and Scotland have been buried here. 



35 



CHAPTER VII 
BRITISH HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT 

THE afternoon of Wednesday, July 22, we were 
invited by Lord Airdale to visit the Parliament 
Houses. At 4 p.m. accompanied by Miss Kit- 
son, we made our way to the House of Lords. The 
magic name of "Airdale" spoken by Miss Kitson, got 
us past the first helmeted obstruction. Lord Airdale 
met us and procured an order for our entrance to the 
House. The ladies got clear in. John Willard and I 
were admitted to a sort of outer room, but still inside 
the House proper, but not clear in. At the suggestion 
of Lord Airdale, we mounted a convenient bench and 
were permitted to remain a few moments, but were 
finally ordered off by an officious officer of some kind. 
However, we had a very good view of the proceed- 
ings. The Lord Chief Justice was there presiding and sat 
in the wool sack. He had on a tremendous head covering 
such as we see in pictures and cartoons and looked as if 
he dated back several centuries, and I am sure he was 
asleep just like Justice Starleigh in Pickwick — "When 
Sergeant Buzfuz sat down, Justice Starleigh woke up". 
The Lord Chief Justice was apparently all attention 
when Lord Russell began to speak. It was a long 
tirade about amending the laws to make divorce easier 
in England. I was informed subsequently that the 
Noble Lord was in trouble himself about an American 
alliance. The lords, as everybody is supposed to know, 
wear their silk hats when in session. There were not 
many in sight, and the proceedings were rather dull. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Lord Airdale procured tickets of admission for 
the ladies to the House of Commons, which was in 
session. No male person can be admitted while the 
House is deliberating, but the ladies went and reported 
the place much lovelier than the House of Lords. 

We were at this junction, introduced to Lord Glen 
Tarvee, a newly created Welsh lord. I had met him in 
America in 1890, as he was one of the British Iron and 
Steel Institute party. The recognition was mutual. 
His name, when I met him, was Jenkin Jones, and I 
called him Mr. Jones and was corrected again good 
naturedly by Lord Airdale. The Welsh lord invited 
us all to tea on the terrace overlooking the Thames at 
5 p.m. We elbowed our way through the part of the 
terrace occupied by the members of the House of 
Commons, and it was quite an animated scene. I am 
sure Miss Cooper was taken for an American heiress 
looking for a titled impecunious peer. The lords have 
a place separate and apart on the terrace, which we 
reached soon and a little ahead of time. Soon the tea 
party approached. There was Lord Glen Tarvee and 
Lady Glen Tarvee, a very handsome daughter about 
seventeen years old, placed next to me at the table, 
whereat, John Willard kicked continuously as he was 
placed next to a sunburned redhaired, freckled faced 
young lady whose name I have forgotten. Then Lady 
Kearlie, Lord Airdale, titled lady, Miss Kitson, Mrs. 
Butler and Miss Cooper completed the party. Miss 
Kitson did the pouring of tea, somewhat to my surprise. 

I felt ill at ease and we were all glad when the 

38 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

function was ended. However, we had taken tea with 
several titled persons in front of "The Historic House 
of Lords", so let it be recorded. 

On our way back to the hotel, we passed the Duke 
of York's school out on parade. This is a large military 
school, the boys being soldier orphans, dressed in 
handsome uniforms and looked fine. The school is 
endowed and supported by the Duke of York, and is 
one of the many noble charities in London. 



39 



CHAPTER VIII-THE AMERICAN AMBASSADOR 

THURSDAY morning I paid my respects to 
Whitelaw Reid, the American ambassador. He 
was quite cordial and the visit lasted for some 
time. 

We visited the Church of Saint Bartholemew the 
Great, Miss Kitson accompanying us. We found it a 
place of very great interest. We were chaperoned by 
the rector, which I did not discover until we were ready 
to leave, and I handed him a fee. 

We were shown the font where Hogarth was bap- 
tized and the official record of same. 

Upon our return to the hotel, we found an engraved 
invitation from Ambassador Reid, to attend a reception 
to be given by Ambassador and Mrs. Reid to the 
American athletes. A copy of the invitation is herein 
reproduced. 

TO THE AMERICAN ATHLETES AT THE 

OLYMPIC GAMES 

THE AMERICAN AMBASSADOR 

AND MRS. WHITLAW REID 

Request the pleasure of your company 

at Dorchester House 

On Thursday July 23rd from 4 to 7 p.m. 

John Willard was invited but went to tea with 

Miss Kitson on a previous invitation. Mrs. Butler, 

Miss Cooper and I went in a plain everyday taxicab at 

4 p.m. Our cards were handed in and we were directed 

to go upstairs. The Ambassador was at the head of the 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

landing and welcomed us in true American style. He 
walked with us to the Grand Reception Room and 
introduced us to Mrs. Reid. She was cordial, but so 
busy greeting dukes and duchesses and bishops, that 
we were soon side-tracked. But Mr. Reid came around 
again, brought the Secretary of the Legation, Mr. 
Carter, and introduced us to some Americans, and in 
fact, for so busy a host, Mr. Reid did himself quite 
proud. We waited until nearly 7 p.m. and as the 
Athletes did not appear, we took our leave, glad it 
was all over. We learned afterwards that the row 
among the Athletes at the Franco Exhibition grounds 
had something to do with the delay. However, it was 
very discourteous to the Ambassador on the part of the 
Athletes, as the reception was given for their particular 
benefit and to show American appreciation. 

Dorchester house is a historic place, filled with 
fine old masters, owned by Earl Grey of Canada, whose 
income is insufficient to keep up the place. The 
American ambassador leased and occupies it, and is 
making a name for himself as well as American hospi- 
tality. 

A call from Sir Hugh Bell and an invitation to 
Rounton Grange, which we were obliged to decline, 
ended the day. 



42 



CHAPTER IX— THE TOWER OF LONDON 

MY conception of the Tower of London was 
somewhat changed and modified after seeing 
it. I had the impression that it was exclu- 
sively a chamber of horrors, filled with instruments of 
torture but while we found considerable evidence of 
blood thirstiness and ferocity on the part of former rulers 
of England, we also found other things more pleasing. 

I had previously written, by advice of a friend, to 
the Governor of the Tower, asking for a fixed time. I 
received a personal reply at the hotel, naming Friday, 
July 24 at 10 a.m. We were on hand promptly and 
assigned a special guide and I am sure were shown some 
things not usually exhibited. 

The Tower was built in the twelfth or thirteenth 
century supposedly by the Romans and at first used 
as a treasury and mint. 

It has principally in later years been used as a 
Royal residence and State prison. Stephen is the first 
monarch mentioned as residing in the Tower. King 
John kept court there and Henry I made the Tower his 
chief residence. 

In 1278 not less than 600 Jews were imprisoned in 
the Tower for clipping and adulterating coin. 

In 1330 the famous Mortimer was imprisoned in 
the Tower and subsequently hung there. In 1509 
Henry VIII, brought his wife, Catherine of Arragon to 
the Tower, after her coronation and in 1530 he brought 
a still younger bride to the Tower. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

During the reign of Mary, the Tower was the scene 
of the imprisonment and death of the innocent Lady- 
Jane Grey who was executed on the Tower Green in 
1554. The execution of the Lady Jane was one of the 
most heartless and inhuman events in the annals of 
England, not excepting the beheading of Mary Queen 
of Scots. We were then shown the exact spot where 
Lady Jane was executed. 

We were also shown the cell where Sir Walter 
Raleigh was imprisoned by Queen Elizabeth like any 
common criminal, for a period of six months, his only 
offence having married without her approval. 

We were then taken down into the dungeon, a 
fearful place and it is a wonder that anyone incarcerated 
ever came out alive. More than 500 prisoners were 
confined at one time in a space no larger than thirty 
feet square. 

We saw the old Roman well, more than 1000 years 
old, still furnishing water. We saw also instruments 
of torture used to extort confessions. Prisoners were 
frequently torn limb from limb by these stretchers. 

The more pleasant objects shown us were the 
actual crown jewels of England, aggregating millions 
of dollars in value. The crown used by the present 
King Edward is a magnificent affair. We saw the 
room where the two innocent children of royal blood 
were cruelly murdered, their only crime being possible 
heirs to the throne, another black page in the history of 
England. The rooms containing ancient armor and 
other relics were quite interesting. The crown worn 

44 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

by Queen Victoria at her coronation contains nearly 
3000 diamonds. 

Among the political executions, in the place set 
apart in the Tower grounds were: 
Anne Boleyn 

Margaret, Countess of Salisbury 
Queen Catherine Howard 
Viscounte Rochford 
and Lady Jane Grey, heretofore mentioned. 

All these and many others were interred in the 
burying ground at the Chapel of St. Peter, which is a part 
of the Tower enclosure. 

The Tower has a regular garrison of modernly 
dressed British soldiers, but after entering the fortress, 
for such it is, the guards and guides are dressed as in the 
Tudor reign, Yoeman of the Guard, or in modern 
terms, "Beef Eaters". The quaint dress of these 
guardsmen adds to the interest of visiting the Tower. 
Gilbert and Sullivan's opera "Ruddygore" has a full 
representation of the Yoeman of the Guard, all through 
the opera. 

Saturday morning, John Willard left us for a 
week-end visit with friends in the country, so we again 
went to the Franco-British exhibition and once more 
saw the Irish village. 

We were shown an autograph book, started since 
the opening of the village, containing noted autographs. 
The King and Queen and many other celebrities, royal 
and otherwise. We also visited the Canadian section 
and were much interested in a pond containing live 
beavers, at work gnawing trees. 

45 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We were told that the King and Queen would be 
at the Stadium in the afternoon, so we lined up in front 
of the Royal Entrance and after being shoved back a 
couple of times and mounting chairs, we were rewarded 
for our patience in waiting. Soon after 4 o'clock a 
royal automobile came up and quickly unloaded the 
King and Queen. Our sight of the royal pair was a 
glimpse only. Mrs. Butler said that she saw the 
Queen's back hair, and Miss Cooper related having a 
fair view of the Queen's profile. For myself, I make no 
claim except having seen the automobile and seeing 
some people pile out of it on the opposite side. 



46 



CHAPTER X— RICHMOND HILL AND OTHER 
PLACES OF INTEREST 

IN the evening we engaged a taxicab and went to a 
recommended place for dinner. A ride to Richmond 
Hill of nine miles, part of it through a beautiful 
park and forest. We saw a large herd of deer, about 
300, running wild, or rather tame, as the animals paid 
no more attention to us than if they had been so many- 
sheep. We passed through Epping Forest, a part of 
Robin Hood's ancient roving ground. We finally- 
pulled up at the "Star and Garter" overlooking the 
Thames, a beautiful spot and said to command a view 
of seven counties. I told the party who gave me this 
information that I had been in a spot in Tennessee 
(Lookout mountain) where, on a clear day, seven 
states could be seen — the temptation to boast a little 
was too great to be overcome. 

The hotel seemed to be in a run-down condition 
and we had a very indifferent dinner. The head 
waiter had marked us for a fee and apparently did not 
want any of the under waiters to help us. The ride 
and view made up for all other deficiencies. 

On Sunday, July 26, we attended services at the 
Abbey. Our seat was near the grave and statue of 
Gladstone. The Bishop of Missouri conducted the 
services. 

In the afternoon, we went with Mr. and Mrs. E. F. 
Flynn to Windsor castle and on account of its being 
Sunday, we were unable to get into the castle proper. 
We visited the grounds and attended services in St. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

George's chapel. On our way home we passed Hounds- 
low Heath, made famous by Dick Turpin, went over 
Twickenham ferry familiarized to us by Mrs. Paul 
Wick's rendering of the song. We saw in the distance 
Eton college and the William Penn manor, and Stoke 
Poges. 

Prince Teck is domiciled in Windsor castle and his 
regiment is quartered on the premises. We heard the 
famous Cameron Band of Scotch Highlanders. We 
were told also that it is impossible to keep the ranks of 
the 79th Highlanders, Prince Teck's Regiment, filled 
with Scotchmen, about one-half are Irish. 

Monday morning, July 27, we rode on a bank 
omnibus to the end of the line and return. Visited 
Covert Garden market. 

In the afternoon we visited the National gallery. 
The collection was not up to our expectations, many of 
the important paintings have been removed to the Tate 
gallery. The collection of Turner's is the largest of 
his work. W r e saw one small water-color drawing, 
closely resembling our little example at home — 
"Oxborough Castle". 

In the evening with John Willard, I went to the 
Empire Music Hall. We had two stalls in the pit 
among the swells. Genee the famous dancer, was the 
principal attraction. It is a large place and has a cafe 
in connection, which we did not visit. It is the custom 
to promenade at intervals, and I was told that one 
portion of the house is reserved for ladies only, who are 
admitted without escort, for one shilling each. No 

48 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

seats are provided, and the ladies (?) are expected to 
secure custom for the cafe and incidentally for them- 
selves. 

On Tuesday morning we visited the Inns of Court. 
The grave of Oliver Goldsmith is in the yard. There 
is no monument, but covering the grave is a half oval 
slab, with this inscription thereon: 

"Here lies Goldsmith 

Born Nov. 10th, 1728 

Died Apr. 10th, 1774" 
This is all that marks the last resting place of one of the 
sweetest of characters, the purest of men, an honor to 
his sex. The author of "The Deserted Village", "The 
Vicar of Wakefield", "She Stoops to Conquer", and 
other well-known classics. 



49 



CHAPTER XI— THE TEMPLE CHURCH 

THIS church is the place where the Knight Tem- 
plars were organized, and is a part of the Inns of 
Court. It was constructed on the model of the 
Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem and was consecrated in 
1185. It is the oldest church in London. The Order of 
Knight Templars was founded by ten French Crusaders. 
The Knights registered three vows, of Poverty, Charity 
and Obedience and the order was established to protect 
Christian pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land. 

The church contains the effigies of many of the 
Crusaders underneath which the remains are buried. 
An effigy with the legs crossed below the knee shows 
that the Knight made one Crusade, crossed above the 
knee shows that he made two or more crusades. We 
were shown and permitted to handle the original key 
to the door of the temple. It weighs sixteen pounds, 
is of brass and in good condition, although nearly one 
thousand years old. 

In the yard of the church is the pump, still in use, 
where Tom Pinch quenched his thirst and met his 
future wife. 

The Middle temple has in it in perfect condition, 
the platform where Shakespeare and his company of 
players performed for the first time and before Queen 
Elizabeth, "The Twelfth Night". It has also the gallery 
presented by Queen Elizabeth, and still in use. The 
middle Temple also contains portraits of Van Dyck of 
Charles I, Elizabeth and Queen Anne. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

There is also an oak table made from oak timber 
taken from vessels of the Armada and presented by- 
Sir Francis Drake. 

Coke and Littleton, two famous lawyers, are 
buried in the Inner temple. The Law library contains 
valuable and ancient charters and manuscripts. We 
were cautioned not to speak above a whisper while in the 
library. The Temple gardens, adjoining, are used for 
public purposes at times. The temples are occupied as 
law offices. I visited a lawyer friend who had his 
office directly overlooking the grave of Goldsmith. 
Charles Lamb, the noted essayist and humorist, was 
born in the Inner temple. 

On Wednesday, July 29, we visited the Tate 
gallery. The pictures which impressed us most are: 
"Sympathy" by Briton Riviere 
"The Horse Fair" by Rosa Bonheur 
"The Vale of Rest" by Sir John Millais 
"The Doctor" by Luke Fildes 
"Napoleon being taken to Elba" by 

Ochardson 
"Ellen Terry as Lady Macbeth" by the 
American artist Sargent. 
In the afternoon we visited the Hungarian Exhi- 
bition Earle Court, an advertisement of Hungarian 
resources. 



52 



CHAPTER XII— ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL 

ON Tuesday, July 30 we visited St. Paul's. The 
origin of this place is supposed to be Roman, 
but the earliest authentic information is of the 
church founded by King Ethelbert in 610. This church 
was destroyed by fire in 961 and again in 1087. The 
church was built and rebuilt and was totally destroyed 
in the great fire of 1666. The present cathedral is from 
the design of Christopher Wren, completed in 1710. 
One of the largest bells in existence is in the sanctum, 
weighs sixteen tons and can be heard all over London. 

We visited the Whispering gallery, so called from 
its absolutely flawless acoustic properties, the library 
clock and ball. The ladies gave out at the Whispering 
gallery, but I climbed up 270 additional steps to the 
Golden gallery, where I had a splendid view of all 
London. My legs ached for a full week after the 
ascent but it was worth the energy expended. 

In the crypt, we saw what might be termed the 
"Painter's Corner" in contradistinction to the Poet's 
corner in Westminster Abbey, for here are buried 
almost in a group Lord Leigh ton, Sir John Millais, 
Turner, Reynolds, Landseer, Cruikshank and Lawrence. 
Quite near repose the remains of Christopher Wren, the 
architect of the church, his only monument. 

Here also are buried, the great Duke of Wellington, 
and nearby is his magnificent funeral car, made from 
cannon recast, won by him in his manjr victories. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

In the nave lie also the remains of Lord Nelson, 
Gibbons, the historian, Bishop Newton, Dean Milman, 
Sir Arthur Sullivan, Lord Lytton, both Napiers, the 
warrior and the historian, and Charles Reade. 



54 



CHAPTER XIII— THE WALLACE COLLECTION 
—CHARLES DICKENS 

IN the afternoon, we visited the Wallace collection. 
This is conceded to be the best collection of pictures 
in London. There are a large number of Meis- 
soniers, Van Dykes, Rubens, Reynolds, Lawrence, 
Murillo, Rembrandt and Gainsborough. 

There are also examples of Romney, Corot, 
Hobbema, Vernet, DeCamp, Gerome, Rosa Bonheur, 
Landseer, Watteau, Verboeckhoven and Boucher. 

On Friday, July 31, John Willard left Waterloo 
station for Southampton, enroute home on the Ham- 
burg ship Bluecher, sailing the same date. We were 
all sorry to have him leave us. His knowledge of the 
German language and his familiarity with London 
added to his personality, made his stay with us profit- 
able as well as agreeable. 

We visited the second exhibition of Dickens relics, 
etc., at the New Dudley Gallery, 169 Piccadilly. 
Having for a period of forty years been a reader and 
admirer of Dickens, the exhibit was of unusual interest 
to me. 

Among the items of interest may be mentioned: 
Old portrait of Dickens by an unknown 

artist, painted 1840 
The original water-color drawing "The 

Empty Chair" 
Gads Hill Place, June 9, 1870 showing the 

library as it looked 
The original Dolly Varden portrait. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

A number of original drawings illustrating : 

"The Cricket on the Hearth", "Martin 
Chuzzlewit", "Pickwick Papers", etc. 
Original drawings of the Dickens Country 
Also Dickens relics. 
Twenty tall antique champagne glasses, purchased 
by Foote, the eminent actor, at the Gads Hall sale, and 
purchased again by W. T. Spencer at the sale of Foote's 
effects at Robinson & Fisher's rooms, Nov. 15, 1906. 
Two of the glasses are engraved with Dickens initials 
"C. D." probably by himself with his diamond ring. 
The original sign of "The Little Wooden 
Midshipman." Dombey and Son. The 
lenders of this valuable relic were 
formerly in Leaderhall Street, as stated 
in the story. 
A Dickens Loving Cup 
Pickwick Mug 

Piece of oak from "The Old Curiosity Shop" 
Playbills, autograph letters and original 
first edition of Dickens' writings. 
I purchased from the exhibit, the twenty cham- 
pagne glasses guaranteed. 

Also twenty-four original water color drawings of 
the leading Dickens characters in his various writings. 
We met, at the exhibit, a charming young lady, 
partly in charge with Miss Jennie Williams. 

On Saturday, August 1, we again visited, and for 
the third time, the Franco-British exhibition. Our 
attention was devoted entirely to the Fine Arts Palace. 

56 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

This palace is divided into two sections, one filled with 
British art and the other with French art. It is a 
remarkable collection. We noted a number of paint- 
ings exhibited in the World's Fair, Chicago, 1893. The 
collection is devoted exclusively to modern French and 
British examples of painting and sculpture. 

Herkimer's "Last Muster" 

Lady Butler's "Roll Call" 
are included in the collection. 

Sunday, August 2, we went to Kew gardens by 
motor bus. The conservatory was closed. We visited 
the museum. We observed in the museum a portrait 
by Sargent, of the Harvard college professor of Botany. 



57 



CHAPTER XIV— LEICESTER 

WE left London from St. Pancras station for 
Leicester at 6:30 p.m., a distance of about 
a hundred miles. We made a quick run. 
There are few grade crossings in England, and many- 
bridges are built entirely of brick. Regular traffic on 
the road was suspended on account of bank holiday, a 
sort of English Fourth of July. The banks all over 
England close Monday, the beginning of the week and 
open the remainder of the week. Theoretically, workers 
are supposed to suspend work for one week. We 
noticed all kinds of evidence of the bank holiday during 
the week following. We reached Leicester at 8:30 p.m. 
and quartered at the Grand hotel. 

Two of Miss Cooper's aunts called, both bright, 
educated women. Incidentally I will mention that 
without exception, all of Miss Cooper's relatives and 
friends whom we met later, proved companionable, 
educated people, many of them persons of considerable 
means and all cultured. 

Monday, August 3, our headquarters and home 
for one full week was the ancient town of Leicester, and 
a few words regarding the town will not be inappropri- 
ate. 

It is claimed that the records are quite authentic 
that the place was a Roman Camp A. D. 50. Strong 
walls and stone fences were built and walls still exist, 
so that there undoubtedly was a real Roman Leicester. 
The floor of a whole Roman villa with a terrace 120 feet 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

long was unearthed in a cherry tree orchard in 1851 
and the mosaics are now in the local museum. 

A. D. 120 the Roman Emperor Hadrian visited 
his domains and the fact of his royal tour is preserved 
by a unique relic of Roman days in Britain. A milestone 
was found in 1717 with a laudatory inscription to the 
Emperor upon it, and the information "From Ratae 
two miles". Ratae was the Roman name of the town 
of Leicester. This is the oldest milestone in existence 
and is preserved in the Leicester museum. The 
Romans withdrew A.D. 450 and the town was left to 
the care of itself. A little rude church was built in 679 
on the foundation and site of the existing St. Margaret's 
church. There were wars and rumors of wars. William 
the Conqueror captured the town in 1068. Domesday 
Book has an exact account of the place at this date. 

Leicester castle was built by the governor and its 
ruins are still in evidence as a part of the buildings used 
by the present city government. 

The history of the place is too long to record here, 
and what is said is very much condensed. John of 
Gaunt occupied Leicester castle for many years. In 
the fifteenth century Parliament assembled three con- 
secutive times in Leicester, the last meeting being in 
1450. King Richard III visited the town twice. The 
second visit was on his way to the famous Bosworth 
field where he met his death. His corpse was brought 
to Leicester and buried in the church of Grey Friar's 
Monastery in 1485. In the reign of Henry VIII the 
monastery was suppressed. Richard's bones were 

60 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

seized by the mob and thrown over Bow bridge into the 
river. We saw the tablet recording this fact. Cardi- 
nal Wolsey, when his power had waned, and in his 
extreme age, came to Leicester to spend his remaining 
days in the monastery. He died in Leicester and is 
buried in the burial ground of the suppressed monastery. 

In 1645 the Royalist army laid siege to Leicester 
and captured it. John Bunyan was a soldier and one of 
the besiegers. He returned to the town in later years 
and preached many times. Later Cromwell captured 
the place. Many noted people are visitors, and bills 
are shown for their entertainment, among others the 
Duchess of York, afterward Queen of England, King 
William III. John Wesley preached here and converted 
thousands. 

In 1842 Queen Victoria and her consort, Prince 
Albert, made a royal tour through the midland coun- 
tries and Leicester was included in the tour. 

The present Leicester is a city of over 200,000 
population. The business is chiefly manufacturing 
hosiery, boots, shoes, etc. 

Cook's tours originated in Leicester. The founder, 
Thomas Cook, spent most of his time in Leicester. 
A panel in the office of Thomas Cook & Son bears this 
inscription : 

"Erected A.D. 1894 by John Mason Cook to 
commemorate the origin of the excursion system of the 
world by Thomas Cook's special train from Leicester 
to Loughborough, July 15, 1841. The train carried 
670 passengers." 

61 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The city has a fine Art Gallery, Museum Park. 
We were shown the Jewry wall, the remains of an old 
Roman wall of great archaeological interest. 



62 



CHAPTER XV— MOTORING ABROAD- 
LUTTERWORTH 

BEFORE leaving for America we decided that 
part of our time would be spent in motoring, as 
it is called in England. This decision was carried 
out, and we were thus enabled to visit out-of-the-way 
historic places, to see things and utilize our time to the 
best advantage without rushing. It is, of course, much 
more expensive than going by railroad, but the advan- 
tages in favor of the automobile are very great. We 
were able to see the common people away from the 
lines of railroads, to travel through the byways and 
hedges, and to "rub clothes" using a homely expression 
with the yoemanry, the workers and other classes not 
usually seen and reached by the tourist. Besides, the 
roads everywhere in England are good and a revelation 
to Americans. The country roads are better, and 
cleaner kept, than the paved streets of Youngstown. 
The fresh and invigorating air is also of great benefit. 

Early Monday morning we arranged with Captain 
Byron at Leicester for the daily use of a motor. We 
found him a very agreeable gentleman to deal with, 
standing high in the community. He is a nephew of 
Lord Byron. 

Our first trip was to Ashby de la Zouch to meet 
Miss Cooper's friends and relatives. Our first call 
was upon Rev. Charles Pratt, a retired clergyman, 90 
years old and his estimable third wife, Mrs. Ellen Pratt 
or "Aunt Ellen", as we learned to call her. We were 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

invited to luncheon and were most hospitably enter- 
tained. The Rev. Pratt served a course dinner with 
perfect ease, dispensing hospitality in the most graceful 
manner. The wines were old and choice and the noon- 
day repast, our first in England in a private English 
home, was most delightful. 

We were shown an autograph letter, written 
entirely in the hand of George III to an ancestor of 
Rev. Pratt. A copy of the letter kindly furnished me 
by Mr. Pratt, appears below: 

"Kew, Nov. 1, 1801 

The King desires the Earl of Chesterfield will come 
here tomorrow and bring Lord Walsingham with him. 
They will be desired to stay the evening, consequently 
care will be taken that they shall not be worse lodged 
than at an Inn, though not so well as at Windsor. 
(Signed) GEORGE III" 

August 4, 1908. 

This is a copy of an autograph letter in my posses- 
sion. It came to me from my grandmother (Mrs. 
Smelt) who was a sister of the Earl of Chesterfield. 
(Signed) Charles Pratt. 

Our reception at "The Elms" the name of the 
Pratt residence, will long be remembered. It is 
worthy of note that all the private homes in England 
have a special name. This seems a good custom and 
makes the proper delivery of mail a certainty, aside 
from the sentimental idea of living in a home with a 
distinctive name. 

We next visited Huntington house, the home of 

64 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Mr. John German, a prominent citizen and uncle of 
Miss Cooper. Mr. German was not at home but we 
met other members of the family. 

Ashly-de-la-Zouch is historic, but as we did not 
visit any of the places I will make no record. 

We went to Packington. The parish church there 
dates back to 1585. We met at Normanton, Phoebe 
Bradock, Miss Cooper's nurse when a child, and her 
husband Joe. Both are over 80 years old and both 
shed tears at the meeting and parting. This fine old 
couple completing their life's journey together, brought 
at once to my mind Darby and Joan. It was one of 
the pathetic incidents of our trip. 

We returned to Leicester through Charnwood 
forest and Bradgate park, finishing up a very pleasnt 
day's motoring. 

Tuesday, August 4, we went to Lutterworth, a 
place of very great historical interest. We spent some 
time in the Lutterworth church, of historic interest. 
The association of this church with the name of Wyclifte 
the first and greatest of English reformers has given 
the place world-wide celebrity. John Wycliffe was 
one of the greatest men of his time. He was born in 
1324 and was pastor of the church 1374 to 1384. The 
impress he made during that period will never be 
effaced. It was here where he sent out simple evangel- 
ists to preach the gospel and it was here where he 
translated the Holy Scripture into the English language. 
Pope Gregory XI issued bull after bull against him, 
but the more bulls issued, the greater Wycliffe 's power. 

65 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

He died within the wall of his own parish. He was a 
graduate of Oxford and was active in his opposition to 
the power of the Catholic church before he became 
pastor of the Lutterworth congregation. 

Lutterworth church is the identical one in which 
Wycliffe prayed and preached and dates back to the 
thirteenth century. The original pulpit and commu- 
nion table as well as his oak chair are still in the church. 
I ascended the pulpit, with pardonable pride, and would 
have sat in the chair had I been permitted to do so. 

The church contains many monuments, brasses 
and other objects of interest. Two volumes of 
Wycliffe's bible are kept in a glass case and in the same 
case is a fine old Black Letter Copy of "Fox's Book of 
Martyrs" with part of chain attached, kept chained in 
the church for the perusal of the congregation. 

Lutterworth village contains many objects of 
interest which we did not visit but hope to at some 
future time. 



66 



CHAPTER XVI— STRATFORD ON AVON 

ONE of the first complete sets of books purchased 
for my library is an edition of Shakespeare, the 
ownership dating back forty years, or longer. 
While not a Shakespearean scholar, I have read Shake- 
speare a good deal and in addition have seen some of 
his plays by good actors, covering the same period as 
the ownership of the writings. 

I think the actor who impressed me most was 
Barry Sullivan, an Englishman. The play was 
Richard III, and I remember going to Cleveland from 
Youngstown to witness the performance. It seemed 
wonderful to me at the time and the impression is still 
vivid. I have seen Booth in Macbeth, Othello and 
Hamlet, and I witnessed in New York an "all star" 
performance of The Merchant of Venice — Booth as 
Shylock and the other leading parts acted by Lawrence 
Barrett and John McCullough. I have also seen the great 
Forrest in Othello and many other lesser lights. There- 
fore, I was eager and impatient to see the place where 
the immortal bard was born and where he is buried. 

Upon our arrival at Stratford-on-Avon, the same 
day we were at Lutterworth, we went direct to the 
"Shakespeare Hotel and Ye Five Gables" for luncheon. 
We were shown through the hotel which antedates 
Shakespearean time and shown the room Shakespeare 
occupied. The hotel is an irregular, rambling place, 
kept in good repair. Dickens' description of "The 
Golden Cross" in London, would fit the Shakespeare. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

After luncheon, we went first to the birth-place 
in Henly Street, which was purchased by public 
subscription in 1847 as a National Memorial of Shakes- 
peare. 

We were shown the identical room where he first 
saw the light, April 23, 1564 — an upper room quite 
good sized and well preserved. When we reached the 
museum on the ground floor we saw many interesting 
things, all well authenticated, viz.: 

Original documents attesting the purchase by the 
Poet of land and other property near the town, docu- 
ments which attest the signatures of Shakespeare's 
father and mother and her daughter Judith. 

Autograph signatures of Shakespeare's brother 
Gilbert, of his eldest daughter Mrs. Susanna Hall, of 
his son-in-law John Hall and of Sir Thomas Lucy, the 
original of Justice Shallow. 

The probate copy of the will of Shakespeare's 
granddaughter the last surviving descendant, Elizabeth, 
Lady Bernard, who died in 1670. Sir John Bernard 
was her second husband. 

Original quarto edition of The Merchant of 
Venice, 1600 during Shakespeare's life time. 

Chapter of endowment establishing, 1482, grammer 
school where Shakespeare was educated. 

The desk used by Shakespeare in the grammer 
school. 

Shakespeare's signet ring and other objects of 
interest. 

In the upper room were shown: 

68 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Portraits of Shakespeare and his daughter Eliza- 
beth. 

Autograph letter of David Garrick. 

We then drove to the hamlet of Shottery and 
visited the Anne Hathaway cottage, acquired by the 
English government through an act of Parliament in 
1892. No one speaks of Anne Hathaway as Mrs. 
Shakespeare, but this fact is beyond dispute. The 
cottage is vine covered, thatched roof and in fine 
condition. There was something of a crowd and I 
sat for some time, without knowing it on the bench, in 
front of the old-fashioned fireplace where Shakespeare 
did his courting. This is a presumption, but as there 
is but one seat and just room for two, the presumption 
is fair. The cottage was the property of the Hathaway 
family and so remained undisputed until 1838. The 
house contains some furniture of the Elizabethan 
period, but not well authenticated. 

However, it is undisputed that this is where Anne 
Hathaway lived and where Shakespeare courted her. 

There is an old-fashioned bake oven back in the 
wall and other evidences of good living and comfort. 

We then visited and spent considerable time in the 
church of Stratford-upon-Avon. The church is on the 
site of an earlier building than the one now in existence, 
which dates back only to the nineteenth century. The 
location is on the banks of the historic Avon river. The 
churchyard is filled and now closed for burials. The 
door of the church has on it a sanctuary knocker, with 
ring attached, quite common in all the old buildings of 

69 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

England. The interior of the church is the last resting 
place of residents of Stratford and contemporary with 
Shakespearean times. 

We saw the font where Shakespeare was baptized, 
April 26, 1564. In the nave we were shown the old 
parish register, in which are the entries of William 
Shakespeare's baptism and burial. Plainly written in 
a bold round hand the baptism entry is as follows : 
* 'April 26, Gulielmus, Filius Johannes 

Shakespeare, 
And of the burial in 1616— 
April 25." 

The letter "E" is omitted in the register. 
The church is filled with beautiful memorial 
windows, too many for description. The American 
chapel was, of course, of particular interest to us. It 
contains an American window unveiled and dedicated 
1896. The inscription on this beautiful window runs: 
"A. M. D. G., the gift of America to 
Shakespeare church." 
The chancel of the church excites the greatest 
interest. Here is where the mortal remains of Shakes- 
peare lie. 

The stone which is over the Poet's wife bears this 
inscription : 

"Heare lyeth interred the body of Anne, wife of 
William Shakespeare, who departed this life the 6th 
day of August, 1623, being the age of 67 years." The 
next is the stone which according to unbroken tradition, 
covers the Poet's remains. 

70 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The lines upon it are well known : 

"Good friend for Jesus Sake forbear, 
"To digg the dust enclosed heare, 
"Blest be ye man who spares these stones 
"And cursed be he who moves my bones." 
Too much space would be required to describe all 
of interest in the church and churchyard. 

On the river bank, we were shown the stone upon 
which Longfellow sat when he wrote the inspired poem 
which begins: 

"Flow on Sweet River" 
We left the church, filled with additional reverence 
for the great poet and humanizer of men. 

We also saw the Harvard house, where the founder 
of Harvard college, John Harvard was born. 

On Wednesday, August 5, we went with Miss 
Cooper to visit her friends in Enbury. Visited a 
granite quarry, much interested in the Blondin convey- 
or. The granite is used for paving, building and 
concrete. 



71 



CHAPTER XVII— COVENTRY— KENILWORTH 
—WARWICK 

ON Thursday, August 6, we started bright and 
early for Coventry, a historic spot made famous 
by the ride of Lady Godiva through the streets 
in the early morning. Her attire, if tradition be true, 
was extremely simple. The beautiful story is well 
known and no less a personage than Tennyson made it 
his theme for an extended poem. It has been sung and 
talked about for centuries until it has been divested of 
whatever pruriency it might have had in the com- 
mencement. 

Leofric, husband of Lady Godiva, oppressed the 
people with unjust taxes. These became burthensome 
and unbearable. Godiva's tears moved the Earl to 
propose, in a bantering way, that if she would ride 
through the streets in the costume, or rather lack of 
costume, provided by nature, he would remove the 
taxes and relieve the oppressed people of the burthen. 
She accepted the proposal, her long streaming hair 
assisting in the decision and the Earl gave orders that 
all window blinds should be closed during the perform- 
ance of the covenant. The order was carried out with 
the exception that Peeping Tom could not refrain from 
a passing glance. The look cost him his eyesight, as 
he immediately became stone blind. The Earl carried 
out his part of the bargain. The event is celebrated 
yearly and is the origin of the term of "The Freedom 
of the City". 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The event occurred in the eleventh century. Leofric 
died in 1057 and was buried with the Countess Godiva 
in the porch of the monastery they had founded. We 
rode through the identical street through which 
Countess Godiva rode and were shown her residence, 
and the house occupied by Peeping Tom at the time. 

It is proper to add that the story of Lady Godiva 
is well authenticated by the old historians. The 
Peeping Tom portion is not so well borne out. 

There is a good deal of historic interest in Coventry 
which we overlooked, and hope some time in the future 
to see. 

We spent considerable time in St. Michael's church 
and were well rewarded. The original church was of 
Norman architecture, and is supposed to have been 
founded in the twelfth century by King Henry I. 
The church, as many others, has been built and added 
onto and was completed about 1375. The steeple is 
graceful and a masterpiece in gothic building. In a 
sense the steeple is higher than Salisbury, as it stands 
from the ground. The steeple in Salisbury springs 
from the body of the cathedral. It is wondrously 
beautiful and is substantially 300 feet high. The 
church itself is likewise beautiful and a triumph of 
architecture. No description does it justice. 

St. Mary's hall, Lady chapel and Miserere stalls 
were completed in the fourteenth century and contain 
many objects of interest. We saw the ancient marble 
statue of Lady Godiva on horseback, nearly 700 years 
old. 

74 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Mary, Queen of Scots, was at one time imprisoned 
in the crypt, by order of Queen Elizabeth. In the 
Lady's chapel, we saw a fine oil portrait of George III. 

Coventry is a quaint old town and has been visited 
by kings and queens from Richard II down to Queen 
Elizabeth, King William III and Queen Victoria. In 
the market place is a fine bronze statue of the Countess 
Godiva on horseback. 

KENILWORTH CASTLE 

This old castle, now in ruins, is of exceptional 
historic interest, made largely, or at least sentimentally 
so, by Sir Walter Scott in his novel "Kenilworth". 

We visited the place and viewed what is left of the 
once famous pile, which is not much but picturesque. 

An old Roman castle formerly stood on the site 
now occupied by the ruins and parts are traceable. 

In 800 A. D., it was rebuilt in part and the building 
continued until centuries later. 

The castle has the remains of an immense moat and 
was fought over, captured and recaptured many times 
by beseigers and partisans. 

Parliament was held in the castle in 1265. In 
1392 John of Gaunt built the Strong tower, the 
Banqueting hall, Grand tower and Privy chambers. 

The castle was used for the imprisonment of state 
prisoners. Queen Elizabeth visited the castle in 1566 
and had great festivities. She came again in 1572 and 
in 1575. At this time the story goes Amy Robsart, 
Scott's heroine in Kenilworth, was forcibly abducted. 

7b 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The history of the castle abounds in stories of 
cruelty and poisonings, and seiges without end, and is a 
part of English regarding the castle made by T. Oakley 
in 1886. 

We saw a remarkable tree in the Kenilworth 
grounds, which will be described in the account of our 
visit to Stoke Poges. 

WARWICK CASTLE 

Thursday, August 6, we went to Warwick castle, 
and were shown through the castle grounds. The 
castle is in fine condition as well as the surroundings and 
is occupied by the Countess of Warwick, and her son, 
the future Earl of Warwick, now Lord Brooke, and 
not of age. 

The Avon river flows past the place and is much 
wider and more attractive than at Shakespeare's home. 

The castle was built during the twelfth, thirteenth 
and fourteenth centuries and was never despoiled, as 
the Warwicks were favorable to Cromwell and were 
therefore not disturbed. We were shown through by 
a very intelligent guide. From the back windows of 
the large reception room, we saw the Avon flowing 
gently past, a beautiful waterfall, adding to the pictur- 
esqueness of the view. We saw Sir Isaac Walton's 
marriage chest, made of cedar and beautifully carved. 

Other objects of interest were: 

A large pot, called "Guy's Porridge Pot". It is 
an enormous cauldron, holding 120 gallons, weighing 
half a ton. The pot was used for garrison cooking 
purposes in the fourteenth century. 

76 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The trappings used by Queen Elizabeth in her 
journey from Warwick to Kenilworth in 1573. 
The identical helmet worn by Cromwell. 
The Warwick vase, in fine condition, a Greek 
production dating back 400 years B.C. 

There are no less than five rooms containing 
paintings, some of them priceless. We saw the entire 
collection, but can only mention a very few. 

"The Assumption of the Virgin", Raphael 
"Anne Boleyn", Lely 
"The Four Evangelists", Rubens 
"Charles I", equestrian portrait, Van Dyck 
"The Laughing Boy", Murrillo 
"Landscape", Salvator Roser. 
A fine portrait of the Countess of Warwick and 
her daughter, painted by the American artist, Sargent, 
adorns the walls of the dining room. 

The state bedroom contains the bed occupied by 
Queen Anne, and the accompanying furniture. This 
was presented to the Warwicks by George III. 

It should be remembered that the various Earls of 
Warwick covered a period of 1000 years. Their burial 
place is St. Mary's church and Beauchamp chapel, 
both of which historic places we visited. 

The church was built in the twelfth century, on 
the ruins of a much older fabric. The tower has a 
remarkable chime of bells. A different tune is played 
each day: 

77 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Sunday .... The Easter Hymn 

Monday . . . Home Sweet Home 

Tuesday . . . Jenny Jones 

Wednesday Blue Bells of Scotland 

Thursday . . The Minstrel Boy 

Friday .... The March in Scipio 

Saturday . . The Last Rose of Summer 
The crypt containing the ancient ducking stool, 
used to cool off scolding wives, was shown us. We 
were given a cut of the affair and shown how it was used. 
The Beauchamp chapel must be seen to be appre- 
ciated. It is an architectural gem. The principal 
tomb is that of Richard said to be the finest in the world. 
Immediately opposite is the tomb of the Earl of 
Leicester, Robert Dudley, the favorite of Queen 
Elizabeth. There are numerous other tombs of various 
other Earls of Warwick, but space will not permit 
description. We saw the table used by the magistrate 
in making out the warrant for the arrest of Shakespeare 
for poaching. 

We saw the room in the crypt where the various 
earls not having special tombs are resting. It is a 
large square room, with niches extending around three 
sides. These niches contain leaden coffins holding the 
remains. 

A pleasing sequel to our visit to Warwick castle, 
occurred after our return to London. I bought in 
Leicester, a two volume edition, "History of Warwick 
Castle", by Anne, Countess of Warwick. It is beauti- 
fully printed and illustrated. Something inspired me 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

to write to the Countess of Warwick and ask for an 
inscription on the work to take back to America. 
Somewhat to my surprise, I received a fine letter from 
her complying with my request. 

We visited the Green family at Kibworth and saw 
a fine old church and had a delightful visit with Miss 
Cooper's friends. 



79 



CHAPTER XVIII— BRADGATE PARK— 
BELVOIR CASTLE 

ON Saturday, August 8, we visited the ruins of 
Lady Jane Grey's manor in Bradgate park. 
The house is surely a veritable ruin, but the 
pathetic incidents connected with the life of Lady Jane 
Grey and her tragic end, made the visit of exceptional 
interest. The property is now owned by one of her 
descendents and is rented for shooting purposes. We 
saw all sorts of rabbits and hares and a large herd of 
deer. There are some chestnut trees in the yard and 
very ancient oak trees in the open, some of them over 
400 years old. We saw the watch tower of "Old John" 
in the elevated distance, but contented ourselves with 
a passing look. The tower is said to have, or formerly 
had, an underground passage connecting with the manor 
house one mile distant. The taking of Lady Jane 
Grey's life is one of the blackest pages in English his- 
tory. She was a victim of conspiracy and chicanery. 

We visited Belvoir castle, pronounced "Beaver". 
This, another historic place, is owned by the Duke of 
Rutland. The family were absent and the visit was 
far. from satisfactory. Many of the most interesting 
relics had been temporarily moved and house cleaning 
was in progress. The guide was quite incompetent 
being apparently "one of the servants in the house". 

However, we saw a few things of interest. There 
are many old portraits and busts. A chair made from 
the Duke of Wellington's Waterloo tree. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We were denied admission to the chapel as well as 
to the mausoleum. The castle was built strictly for 
defense, being on Rutland and his friends. The 
grounds surrounding are attractive. 

The relics we missed would have been of greater 
interest than those we saw. 

Sunday, August 9, we again visited Huntington 
house in Ashby-de-la-Zouch and this time found Mr. 
John German at home. He is an educated English 
gentleman of much local influence. In his garden he 
has an old Saxon font and the hour glass once owned by 
Sir Isaac Newton. 



82 



CHAPTER XIX— CHARNWOOD FOREST- 
CISTERCIAN MONASTERY 

IATER we went to the monastery in the Charnwood 
forest known as the Abbey of Mount Saint 
*J Bernard. It being Sunday we were denied ad- 
mission at first, but I used my persuasive powers on 
Prior Gerome and he consented to allow me to see the 
inner holy of holies, but the ladies were denied admis- 
sion to everything except the museum. 

The Brothers are a branch of the Cistercian order, 
same as in Switzerland where, the great St. Bernard 
dogs rescue frozen travelers. 

The monastery is governed from Rome. I saw the 
rough beds where the monks sleep and all the appliances 
imaginable for discomfort. Prior Gerome is a very 
interesting man, ignorant of all secular affairs, but 
well advised as to ecclesiastical matters. For instance, 
he knew of Bishop Horstman's death which occurred 
recently and seemed overjoyed when I told him I had 
known the good Bishop personally. There are but 
twenty -nine members of the order left, and I judge from 
this that the membership is dwindling away. I saw 
several Brothers, but was not permitted to even whisper 
when going through the corridors and the holy spots. 
I saw one monk in full dress going through genuflec- 
tions before an image, and I was startled as the dress 
resembled so closely that of a woman, and before the 
genuflection commenced the figure stood so still I 
thought it was a statue. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The abbey was erected in 1838. Everything 
about the place is suited for monastic life and nothing 
else. But one woman, Queen Charlotte, was the first 
lady who ever gained admission to the monastery and 
this was by special dispensation from the Pope. A 
full history of the Cistercian order would be of great 
interest, but has no place in this narrative. 

We finished our visit with a climb to Mount 
Calvary a natural stone eminence, some two hundred 
feet high with an immense crucifix on top. We bade 
Father Gerome "Auf Veder Sehn" and when we finally 
parted he exclaimed "Pax Vobiscum" — "Peace be with 
you". 

On Monday, August 10, we left Leicester at 11:30 
a.m. having completed a week of delightful and instruc- 
tive sight-seeing. We returned to the Grand hotel, 
London and arranged to remain one week. We did no 
sight-seeing on the day of our arrival. 



84 



CHAPTER XX 
ETON COLLEGE— STOKE POGES 

TUESDAY, August 11, we visited Eton college, 
and saw all we could during vacation time. 
Eton is a historic school and many of the great 
men of England received their preparatory education 
in this noted pile. The college was founded by the 
Royal Charter of Henry VI, October 11, 1440. The 
official name is: 

"The Kings College of our Lady of Eton, beside 
Windsor". 

The original idea was to care for and educate boys 
of poor parentage and others unable to pay their own 
way, as well as secular priests. This was subsequently 
altered and almshouse attachment was abolished in 
1468. 

The location of the college is near Windsor castle 
and the Thames. 

What is known as the Hundred Steps are still in 
existence and still used by Eton boys to climb up to the 
Castle terrace. This was where George III (our George) 
mixed with the boys and boasted that he knew every 
lad in school. 

The town of Eton is full of historic places, the 
haunts of great men during their boyhood, which reads 
slightly Irish. 

Shakespeare was very much in this region and put 
up at the White Hart hotel, where he wrote "The 
Merry Wives of Windsor". 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We visited the chapel and court adjoining. I was 
much attracted by an old pump, four hundred years in 
existence and still in use by the boys for drinking 
purposes, formerly used also for ablutions by the 
scholars. I worked the handle and took a good big 
draught of most refreshing water. 

The interior of the chapel contains fine fresco 
work and beautifully stained glass windows, also many 
tablets erected to the memory of deceased notables 
connected with the school. 

We were barred from visiting the different school 
buildings on account of vacation time and repairs going 
on. 

In the chapel are many historic portraits, among 
them a fine one of George III. 

We were in the library and the attendant would 
not permit me to register in the book which stood open 
invitingly. The guide made the remark that ''the 
register is for certain people". 

The library contains valuable manuscripts and 
books of historic interest, among others the first copy 
of the Mazarine Bible printed from movable types in 
1453. 

The playing fields, so called, date back to the 
foundation of the college, and are large in extent and 
filled with facilities for all sorts of games usually played 
by boys. 

The Duke of Wellington is quoted as saying "The 
Battle of Waterloo was won on the playing fields of 
Eton". 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The school has dormitories for 3000 boys and the 
history of the college is an integral part of the history 
of England during the past 450 years. 

After our somewhat unsatisfactory inspection of 
Eton college we drove to Stoke Poges. 

The most widely known poem in the English 
language * 'Elegy written in a Country Churchyard" 
was inspired by Stoke Poges church, and surroundings 
and written in the churchyard by Thomas Gray. As 
was fitting, his ashes were buried in a tomb near the 
church and the place is a shrine visited by English 
speaking people with as much reverence as is Stratford- 
on-Avon. 

There is a large monument to Gray in the park 
adjoining but it is too modern and not in keeping with 
the quiet, peaceful and restful surroundings of the 
church and the churchyard: 

"Full many a gem of 

purest ray serene, 
The dark unfathomed 
caves of ocean bear, 
Full many a flower is born 

to blush unseen, 
And waste its sweetness 
on the desert air." 
The history of Stoke Poges goes back to Anglo- 
Saxon times when the manor was held by "Siret, a man 
of Earl Harold". 

Domesday Book, 1086, records that the lands were 
held by William Fitz Anculf, otherwise known as 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

William Stoches. The manor passed into other hands 
and a tenant, 1290 to 1330, Robert Poges gave the name, 
which still holds good. The lands passed through 
various hands as shown by the records, having been 
owned successively by Sir Edward Coke, the great 
lawyer, who died at Stoke Poges, 1634. Sir Edward 
entertained Queen Elizabeth at the manor "most 
magnificently" as the account reads. 

Sir John Villiers, Lady Cobham and the Penn 
family were also owners. The manor was bought by 
Thomas Penn, son of William Penn 1760 and retained 
by the Penn family until 1840. Thomas Penn was the 
son of William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania. The 
house is still known as the Penn manor. We were told 
while at Stoke Poges that the manor and land were 
about to pass into the hands of a golf club. 

The church and churchyard known as St. Giles 
church, are within a few hundred feet of the Penn manor 
which was erected in 1790 by John Penn, another son 
of William Penn. Part of the church, still standing, 
dates back to 1107. The church has, of course, been 
built and rebuilt. The main part used now is of red 
brick and stucco. The interior of the church is quaint 
and of course incongruous, oak beams 500 or 600 years 
old and modern columns adjoining. 

There is a font inscribed 1338 A. D. 

The lepers window is shown from the outside. 
Four of the old windows are filled with Flemish glass 
and glass brought from the manor house. One of the 

88 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

windows shows the arms of Roger Manners, son of 
Dorothy Vernon of Haddon Hall, who eloped with Sir 
John Manners, in 1558. 

Also the arms of Sir Walter Mildmay, the founder 
of Emanuel college at Cambridge, from which pro- 
ceeded John Harvard the founder of Harvard college. 
A remarkable stained glass window is inscribed 
1643 and is known as the "Bicycle Window". The 
figure bears a close resemblance to the modern bicycle. 
Numerous memorials are in the church proper and 
many noted people are buried therein, among others, 
members of the Penn family. 

In the churchyard which we first visited we saw the 
tomb of Gray. Rather curious, Gray's name is not on 
the tomb but on a tablet opposite on the church wall 
is his name and these words : — 

"In the same tomb upon which he has so feelingly 
inscribed his grief at the loss of a beloved parent." 
His sister and mother are buried in the same tomb and 
the inscription on the vault reads: — 

"In the vault beneath are deposited 
in hope of a joyful resurrection 
the remains of 
MARY ANTROBUS 
She died unmarried, November 5, 1749, 

Aged 66. 

In the same pious confidence beside 

her friend and sister here sleep the 

remains of 

DOROTHY GRAY, 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Widow, the careful, tender mother 

of many children, one of whom alone 

had the misfortune to survive her. 
She died March 11, 1753 
Aged 67. 
The churchyard is most interesting. Upon enter- 
ing the yard we were met by a grave digger engaged in 
digging a grave for a burial to take place next day. 
Although not the regular guide, we took him in hand 
and were surprised at the intelligence of a man holding 
so humble a position. I was attracted by a beautiful 
tree and noticed it was the same species as one we saw 
at Kenilworth. The grave digger gave us the Latin 
name "Thaya Ventas Erector". It is a sweet scented 
pine brought from South America, tall and straight, 
and the leaves in folds presenting a beautiful appearance 
when stirred by the winds, rising and falling in a graceful 
manner. There is a yew tree in the yard 1400 years old 
and the covering of a part of a tomb inscribed 1107. The 
church is covered with ivy and I at once thought of the 
lines by Charles Dickens in Pickwick Papers which are 
here copied : — 

"Oh, a dainty plant is the Ivy Green, 

That creepeth o'er ruins old, 

Of right choice food are his meals I ween, 

In his cell so lone and cold. 

The wall must be crumbled, the stone decayed, 

To pleasure his dainty whim; 

And the mouldering dust that years have made 

Is a merry meal for him, 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Creeping where no life is seen, 
A rare old plant is the Ivy Green. 
Fast he stealeth on, though he wears no wings, 
And a staunch old heart has he, 
How closely he twineth, how tight he clings 
To his friend the huge Oak Tree, 
And slyly he traileth along the ground, 
And his leaves he gently waves, 
As he joyously hugs and crawleth round 
The rich mould of dead men's graves, 
Creeping where dim death has been 
A rare old plant is the Ivy Green. 
Whole ages have fled and their works decayed, 
And nations have scattered been, 
But the stout old Ivy shall never fade, 
From its hale and hearty green, 
The brave old plant in its lonely days, 
Shall fatten upon the past; 
For the stateliest building man can raise, 
Is the Ivy's food at last. 

Creeping on where time has been, 
A rare old plant is the Ivy Green. 



91 



CHAPTER XXI— LONDON AGAIN— 
WINDSOR CASTLE 

ON Wednesday, August 12, we all took a morning 
bus ride which came to be one of our favorite 
ways of getting around and seeing things. We 
passed Kensington palace, where Queen Victoria was 
born and Holland house was pointed out and described 
as a former great artistic and literary center. The place 
has the appearance of a wilderness and is kept in the 
same unkempt state as during the life of its owner, Lord 
Holland and out of deference to his expressed wish. 
The mansion was built in 1607 in the Tudor style. 
The wild appearance of the grounds in the heart of 
London is refreshing. 

In the evening I went with Mr. Roy Summerville 
on the top of various omnibuses, through the famous 
Whitechapel district. I was prepared to see no end of 
misery, but failed to discern the condition described by 
Jack London, and other writers, who have, I am sure, 
drawn upon their imagination. 

As the bus went along we could see the gradual 
change from the brilliant denizens of the Strand and 
Piccadilly to the poorly dressed inhabitants of the 
White Chapel district. 

I was shown the exact spot where the numerous 
murders were committed by Jack the Ripper, a small 
side street decidedly off the main thoroughfare. Jack 
was discovered to be a lunatic but shrewd enough to 
evade the police for a long period. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The people living in the White Chapel district 
seemed to be pretty nearly all foreigners, Jews, Italians 
and French. Every other house seemed to be a saloon 
or place of entertainment and much apparent gaiety 
prevailed. We walked for some considerable distance 
but were not molested or accosted. Possibly at night 
conditions would have been different. 

Tuesday, August 11, we visited Windsor castle for 
the second time. Our first visit, it will be remembered 
was on Sunday, everything except St. George's chapel 
was closed. This visit, everything was wide open and 
we first paid our respects to the Royal stables. A 
liveried equerry was placed at our disposal and the 
inspection was most interesting. We were shown the 
white ponies used by the Royal children of the future 
Queen, and also the team of ponies and the miniature 
phaeton, used by Queen Victoria in driving with her 
grandchildren, a venerable and a somewhat dilap- 
idated vehicle. The horses numbered 130 and were 
of different colors. The greys are used exclusively 
by the Royal family and the other colors by Royal 
visitors. All the horses are bred at Hampton court 
and trained in the Royal stables at Windsor. 

The harness room was a disappointment and 
contained little but plain harness and equipment. 

The carriage room was quite interesting and we 
were particularly struck with the postillion carriages. 
There is no seat for the driver and the whole affair is 
managed by the men on horseback, particularly 
skillful talent being needed. In the olden days as many 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

as ten horses would be driven tandem. The stables 
were scrupulously clean, the floors could have been set 
for a meal. All the men on duty are uniformed and 
under the strictest discipline. 

Since automobiles have come into fashion, the 
number of horses and the equipment have been reduced. 
The King is fond of motoring and it is fair to suppose 
that a Royal garage will be next in order. 

After the inspection of the stables, a special guide 
was engaged and our tour through the grounds and the 
castle commenced. 

The best view of Windsor is from the Thames 
river. Perhaps we were prejudiced in favor of this 
view from the fact that in my collection of paintings is 
a delightful bit by Peter Dewint, showing the palace 
from the river side. Dewint was a noted English 
painter, long since deceased. 

The history of the castle is coeval with that of the 
English nation from the time of the Norman conquest. 

It is alleged that the site of the castle was once the 
place of an ancient British camp and Roman castle, 
but this is legendary. At old Windsor, two miles 
distant, King Edward the Confessor, sometimes held 
his court. 

There is no record of the New Windsor in the 
Domesday. It is recorded that King William visited 
Windsor in 1070, its first mention as the residence of a 
sovereign. 

The castle as it exists now, dates from the time of 
Henry II, and as all these different piles were built 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

piecemeal during different reigns, the stone is uniform 
and is quarried near the castle, the stone for repair 
work down to the present time being from the same 
quarry. 

George IV made extensive alterations and new 
approaches and different sovereigns since have added 
to the castle, but the same general appearance remains 
as it is testified to by the views painted and drawn at 
different periods. In any event, Windsor castle ranks 
as one of the finest edifices in the world. We were 
astonished at its magnitude as compared with our 
previously formed opinion. 

There are a number of towers known respectively 
as: — Winchester tower, York and Lancaster towers, 
Henry III tower, Salisbury Garter tower, Curfew tower, 
Round tower. 

The Curfew tower contains five bells in daily use. 
"The Knell of Parting Day" was no doubt heard by the 
poet Gray when he penned the "Elegy in a Country 
Churchyard", Stokes Poges being but a few miles 
distant. 

The bells still peal forth sweet sounds, quite 
pleasant to listen to in contrast with the locomotive 
bells quite near. 

The crypt of the Curfew tower was formerly used 
as a prison. Anne of Boleyn passed her last night 
here before her execution. 

From the Round tower floats the British flag. In 
this tower the Order of the Garter originated, considered 
the most exclusive and greatest of all orders, dating 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

from 1638. It is too well known to repeat this legend 
here. Anyway, the accident of the lost garter picked 
up by the King was the simple and sentimental origin 
of the order. Volumes have been written about it, and 
it is well described in Ashmole's History of the "Order 
of the Garter". 

A fine statue of King George III is in the open. 

Many royal marriages have taken place in the 
castle and many royal prisoners have been confined 
therein, many royal deaths have occurred within the 
walls and many are buried near the place of their death. 

St. George's chapel is considered one of the finest 
in England. On our previous visit, it being Sunday, 
we attended service in the lower part of the sanctuary. 
When the chapel was built special stalls were constructed 
for the Knights of the Garter, 600 years after their 
construction and but recently the Knights attended 
divine service, and occupied these stalls. 

Banners and crests and Garter Plates hang around 
in profusion and all of intense historic interest, some of 
them modern as Napoleon III and William the first 
German emperor. Among the internments in the 
Chapel are: 

Edward IV, 

Charles I, refused burial in Westminster 

Abbey, 
Lady Jane Seymour, Queen of Henry VII, 
Charles II, 
Earl of Lincoln, 
Henry VI, 
Duke of Kent, father of Queen Victoria. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Brasses and effigies of noted people are quite plenty 
and too numerous to mention. 

Windsor castle was occupied for many years by 
Queen Elizabeth. 

We were shown the exact spot where Shakespeare 
and his company first played "The Merry Wives of 
Windsor" before Queen Elizabeth. The play was 
written by Shakespeare in the White Hart hotel near 
by and is full of allusions to the Castle and its then and 
former occupants. 

Queen Elizabeth, by the way, was a great scholar, 
familiar with Latin, Italian, French, Greek and Spanish. 
She had teachers for all these languages and was a 
diligent student. Cromwell was a frequent resident of 
the castle, but his occupancy was not continuous. The 
castle was reserved by Act of Parliament for the use of 
the Protector. 

Queen Anne resided for twelve years in the castle, 
and there are many things reminding the visitor of her 
occupancy. One room still retains the name of Queen 
Anne and contains her marble bust. 

Of particular historic interest to Americans is the 
fact that George III resided at Windsor castle during 
the war for American Independence. I am impresesd 
with the belief that he was a mild mannered king with 
considerable of the milk of human kindness in his 
composition and really was not particularly averse to 
parting with his American rebels. 

George III had much to do with the improvement 
of Windsor castle. Under the advice of Dr. Johnson, 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

he collected the finest library in existence, now in the 
British museum. Immense purchases of works of art 
were made by him and are still preserved in the castle. 
He was the one pure minded King George, and with his 
virtuous Queen, set an example worthy of imitation to 
all the world. Domestic grief, political anxiety and 
national misfortune, together with inherited tenderness, 
drove the good King insane, and he died in this condi- 
tion in the castle in 1820. 

We visited the State apartments, the oldest portion 
of the castle. The State ante-room was set apart for 
Royal visitors. We were shown the bed recently 
occupied by the present Emperor William. The room 
contains beautiful wall paintings and decorations. 
The room was formerly the King's dining room. 

There is a Rubens' room, containing more than 
fifty paintings of this prolific worker. 

The council chamber is now fitted up as a bed 
room. The borders of the curtains of the State bed 
and the window curtains were embroidered by Queen 
Charlotte and the ladies of the household. The room 
contains fine paintings by many noted artists. 

The King's closet contains a number of pictures by 
various artists, chiefly Dutch and Flemish. 

The Queen's closet also contains a score or more 
of fine paintings. The picture gallery proper, is filled 
with numerous fine examples of Rembrandt, Titian and 
other immortal painters. The Van Dyck room contains 
thirty examples of the great artist. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The Queen's audience chamber contains much fine 
tapestry and many portraits, one particularly fine of 
Mary Queen of Scots, a full length, as she appeared at 
her execution. 

The guard room is of great historic interest and 
contains historic armor and swords, one being that 
worn by George III, emblazoned with diamonds. 
Another being the sword of Napoleon I when First 
consul. The room is full of articles of great historic 
value. 

St. George's hall is probably the largest banqueting 
hall in existence. It was built by Edward III as a 
banqueting room for the Knights of the Garter. The 
room is 200 feet in length, 34 broad and is still used for 
banqueting purposes. The Grand Reception Room 
is a sort of ante-room to St. George's hall. 

The Throne room is magnificently finished and 
decorated, the hangings being blue velvet. Many 
historical events have taken place in this room. 

The Waterloo chamber is filled with historic 
portraits, painted by the great portrait artist of former 
times, Lawrence Wilkie and others. Historic flags 
hang everywhere, some hundreds of years old, others 
as modern as the flag which floated over the British 
legation at Pekin when besieged by the Chinese in 1901. 

Queen Victoria modernized the castle and occupied 
it for the longest time of any English sovereign. St. 
George's chapel and the grounds contain much evidence 
of her devotion to her husband Prince Albert, who, by 
the way, was a loyal and devoted friend of the North 
during the Civil war of '61 -'65. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

All Americans should hold Queen Victoria in 
grateful remembrance. She was our friend, steadfast 
and enduring, throughout the entire period of the 
conflict and it is a part of the history of the time, that 
Gladstone and other statesmen, unfriendly to the North 
were in favor of recognizing the Southern confederacy 
and would have done so but for the steady opposition 
of the Queen. 

Returning to the city proper, we wound up the 
evening by a visit to "The Old Cheshire Cheese" 
famous for centuries, the home of Dr. Johnson. For a 
consideration, we were shown his chair in which he sat 
and growled, the fireplace where he warmed himself 
and we sat in Johnson's corner and partook of a frugal 
bite. This famous restaurant is a place of resort for 
many distinguished men of the present day, more 
especially at lunch time. 

Dr. Johnson was a noted character and wit, 
learned, pompous and arrogant, ungainly in body and 
careless in dress. His memory is still kept green by his 
friend and worshipper, Boswell, who followed him 
about, drinking in all he said and recording it and 
which was subsequently transformed into a book. 

Boswell's Johnson is unique and no modern library 
is considered complete without the work. This Dr. 
Johnson was "Dr. Samuel Johnson" and should not be 
confounded with the other Dr. Jonson, also of literary 
fame known as "Rare Ben Jonson". 

Thursday evening I walked through Soho with our 
friend Mr. Summerville. This historic ground, the 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

former haunt of artistic and literary people. It is now 
filled with cheap restaurants and the lodgings of the 
poorer classes. The district derived its name from an 
old hunting cry "so ho" handed down from the days 
when rabbits and hares all went in pairs through the 
district and could be started up by the hounds. 

We passed the home of Hogarth and the burial 
place of Hazlett. 

The evening ended by a visit to the famous Savage 
club of which Mr. Summerville is a member. The club 
has a membership of 600. No one can become a 
member unless he is an artist or a writer of repute. The 
walls contain over 200 paintings and drawings all the 
work of members. The Prince of Wales is a member 
as well as King Edward VII. Our own inimitable 
Mark Twain is an honorary member. Numerous 
literary and artistic functions are given in the club and 
at the regular Saturday night dinners members are 
expected to assist in entertaining without previous 
notice. The membership of the club is interchangeable 
with the Lambs club in New York and the Green Room 
club of London. 

As a typical English club, I was fortunate in being 
entertained therein. No bills are run or checks signed 
as in our American clubs. It is C. O. D. when you 
order. The "Dutch treat" is in vogue. A number will 
sit at the same table and each party pays for his own 
refreshments and orders what he pleases. The club 
overlooks the Thames embankment and is in the center 
of the business districts. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Friday August 14, we took a long drive through 
Hyde park, and eschewed sight seeing. Saturday, 
packed up and at 1 1 :40 a.m. left for Southampton at 
which place we arrived at 2 :00 p.m. and put up at the 
Southwestern hotel, one of the many good hostelries 
kept by the different railroad lines. 



103 



CHAPTER XXII 
SOUTHAMPTON— THE PILGRIM FATHERS 

THE impression in our minds that Southampton 
is of mushroom growth and recently developed, 
was eradicated very soon after our arrival in this 
historic town. We had in mind that the making of 
Southampton, the English port for so many foreign 
lines of steamers, was responsible for the prominence of 
the place and its rapid growth. This has, of course, 
contributed to the town's prosperity, but the fact 
remains that it is a historic place of prominence and one 
of the oldest towns in England. 

Americans are particularly interested in Southamp- 
ton. Perhaps the most interesting historical event 
connected with the town was the embarkation of the 
"Pilgrim Fathers" on board the Mayflower in 1620. 
There were two ships started on this memorable voyage, 
but the Speedwell belied its name and was found to be 
unseaworthy at Plymouth and there abandoned. The 
voyage of the Mayflower took 63 days, Cape Cod being 
reached on November 11. The first village established 
by the voyagers was named New Plymouth. 

We were told that in the Audit house was a fine oil 
painting of the Mayflower, which had never been re- 
produced. We paid our respects to the mayor, and 
after inspecting the mayor's parlor, a fine apartment, 
we were, by the aid of a friendly clerk, shown the 
veritable picture. 

Housecleaning was in progress and it was with 
considerable difficulty that we found the treasure. It 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

proved to be away above our expectations, and I was 
immediately possessed with the idea that we must have 
a photograph to take home with us. I explained that 
we were American friends of the American ambassador 
in London, etc. The result was that I arranged with 
a photographer and subsequent to our visit, received 
and brought home with me a beautiful photograph of 
this historic picture, the only one in America. The 
artist is unknown, as the painting is unsigned. Tra- 
ditionally, it is about 200 years old, as it has been in the 
Audit house that length of time. 

A word about the Pilgrim Fathers. In 1608, a 
small body of pilgrims from Scrooby in Nottingham- 
shire went to Holland in order to dwell among people 
whose views and form of worship were more congenial 
than those maintained and enforced by James I. 

The party remained in Holland twelve years, 
found that the life of the city in which they lived was 
not calculated to keep them firm in their English 
allegiance and sympathies and in their way of spiritual 
thinking. They were alone in a strange land and longed 
for a country where they would be free from foreign 
influence and where they might have perfect liberty to 
worship. So this remarkable journey was made and 
all returned to England. After visiting with relatives 
in London and elsewhere, by prearrangement all met 
in Southampton and spent nearly two weeks preparing 
for the voyage to new America. As stated, the Speed- 
well was abandoned at Plymouth and its passengers 
transferred to the Mayflower, which in due time arrived 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

on the New England coast and the New England states 
were founded by the Pilgrim Fathers. This was the 
first real settlement in the New World. We of the 
Western Reserve have just reason to be proud of our 
ancestry and the part taken in the establishment of a 
Colony which has developed into a nation of eighty-five 
million people. 

We were in Southampton and vicinity for several 
days and visited and were shown many places of 
historic interest. 

The bar gate is one of the striking features of the 
town and still remains across the center of the most 
important street in Southampton. The gates date 
back to early Norman times. A middle passage is 
kept open for traffic. There is a figure of George III 
in the niche. A watch bell dated 1695 and inscribed 
"In God is my Hope". A sundial dated 1705. 

The Audit house, already referred to, contains 
valuable historical relics, ancient charters, manuscripts, 
and a warrant issued by Edward, the Black Prince, in 
1339. 

The Tudor house recently restored is of much 
interest. We visited it and were shown the ancient 
part of it, timber 500 years old, a fire-place of early 
origin, etc. Henry VIII used this house during his 
visits to Southampton, prior to his divorce from 
Catherine of Arragon. 

In one of the ancient cubby-holes in the old well, 
we were shown the old treasure chest, brought to 
Southampton by Phillip II of Spain in 1554, and in the 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

same place a model made of bones by the French 
prisoner of the French war vessel Cemarre, a very fine 
production and showing the artistic tendencies of the 
French of whatever class. 

There are many historic churches in Southampton 
some of them centuries old. 

Holyrood dating from 1320 is where Phillip II of 
Spain worshipped and was shrived while en route to 
Winchester to marry his future queen, Mary. 

St. Michaels, another historic church was under- 
going repairs during our visit and we were unable to 
view it, except the interior. St. Michaels dates from 
early Norman times. It contains several monuments, 
commemorating several notables, among others: May 
Watts, the sister of Dr. Watts, Sir R. Lyston, Lord 
Chief Justice of England and Bennet Langdon, the 
friend of Dr. Johnson. The monument has on it this 
inscription written by Dr. Johnson: "Sit anima mea cum 
Langton's" — "May my soul be with Langton". 

Southampton contains many parks, and places of 
amusement, cricket and foot ball grounds. It was 
our headquarters for several days while motoring 
to Burnemouth, Salisbury, Winchester, Stonehinge, 
Salisbury plain, and Netly Abbey, all of which places 
we visited and will record our impressions later on. 

Old Southampton dates back, well authenticated, 
for more than a thousand years. It was defended by a 
stone wall thirty feet high, much of which remains. 
Many of the original towers are still intact and of 
surpassing archaeological interest. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Coming down to a later period, Jane Austin lived 
and wrote in Southampton, the greater part of her life. 
Isaac Watts, the noted writer of hymns was born, lived 
and died in Southampton. His house was pointed out 
to us in one of our drives. Dr. Watts' place in hymns 
and sacred songs is secure and has placed him upon a 
pedestal which would make Southampton famous if 
there were no other reason. 

Charles Dibdin of musical and lyrical fame, was 
born in Southampton and a monument is erected to his 
memory. His sea songs entitled him to the name of the 
Sailor's poet. 

The history of Southampton is full of interesting 
events too numerous to record or even touch upon. Its 
history is a part of the history of the British empire. 



109 



CHAPTER XXIII— THE ISLE OF WIGHT- 
WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL— ROMNEY 
ABBEY— SALISBURY CATHEDRAL 

A DAINTY picturesque spot is the Isle of Wight. 
Fortune favored us with a bright sunny day, 
August 16, so we followed the crowd and 
boarded the staunch little steamer, Queen, at an early 
hour. We passed the castle of Lord DeLaWar, the 
Descendant of the Lord DeLaWar after whom our own 
state of Delaware was named, and our first view of the 
American flag on an American vessel was the coming 
into Southampton harbor of steamer St. Paul. It was 
really an inspiring sight, and we passed near enough for 
the Americans on board the incoming steamer to 
realize that there were Americans on the little channel 
boat. We passed Cowes, the greatest yachting place 
in the world and the summer home of King Edward VII, 
Osborn house, the former favorite home of Queen 
Victoria, donated by her to the English government, 
now an abode of some sort for pensioners. We 
then touched briefly at Portsmouth, the great naval 
station of the British empire. We were fortunate in 
seeing as many as fifty vessels of war, the large number 
explained by the ships just returning from the naval 
maneuvers in connection with the Franco-British 
exhibition, and the exercises at Quebec. This sight 
was substantial evidence of the supremacy of England 
on the high seas. We had also a good view of the 
historic steamer Victory, Lord Nelson's flagship. 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We landed at Shanklins, in the Isle of Wight, and 
went immediately to the Chine inn for luncheon, a cute 
little box of a place overlooking the ocean and near the 
Chine walk. We met Miss Jennie Williams and her 
fiance, Mr. James W. Morris, on their vacation and 
pre-nuptial honeymoon. We had met Miss Williams 
in London, at the New Dudley gallery where she was 
in partial charge. Mr. Morris is the manager and 
assistant editor of "The American Register" in London. 
The meeting was very pleasant and profitable to us. 
They became our guests until our departure at the 
close of the day. We went to Daish's hotel, a beautiful 
old-fashioned place, kept by an American from Chicago. 
There were flowers in profusion all over the surround- 
ing grounds. We had "tea" there, an everlasting 
English custom, which bobs up on all occasions. At the 
conclusion of this function, we procured a conveyance 
and went on a twenty-mile drive through a part of the 
island. The drive and the information gained from 
our companions, was one of the pleasing episodes of our 
journey abroad. Miss Williams is a bright, intelligent, 
educated girl with gracious manners, capable of adding 
much to the happiness of others going through life's 
journey. We drove over a moor, owned by Lord 
Somebody, used for shooting purposes in season. The 
brilliant heather made a fitting background for the 
giant chalk cliffs and the ocean in front. 

We passed through Sandown, a fashionable water- 
ing place with pier and esplanade and fine coast scenery. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

It was in Sandown that the training ship Eurydice 
capsized in a sudden storm in 1878, resulting in the loss 
of 300 young lives. 

Returning to Shanklins, we had a fine luncheon 
and then went through the famous "Chine walk" 
and Shanklins Chine, the most beautiful piece of 
natural scenery we had seen, a beautiful gorge with a 
gradual descent down to the sea, a distance of nearly a 
mile. It is all natural and filled with nature's revels, 
trees, flowers, moss and ferns, a veritable paradise. 

Other objects and places of interest in Shanklins 
are the American woods, a beautiful grove of trees. No 
one seemed to know why it was named for America. 

Cansbrooke castle grounds are romantile and is 
where Charles I was imprisoned, and the window 
through which he escaped is shown intact. 

The whole of the Isle of Wight, is of absorbing 
interest and at least a full week could be spent in 
exploring its beauties. The island is 23 miles long by 
13 miles wide, separated from the mainland by a channel 
five miles wide. The population is over 80,000. The 
climate is equable and mild. The history dates back 
to the sixth century. Remains of Roman villages are 
frequent. The island is now built up with towns and 
beautiful country residences. The Isle of Wight may 
be called "The Garden of England." 

WINCHESTER CATHEDRAL 

On Monday, August 17, we visited Winchester 
cathedral, next in importance to Westminster Abbey. 
The history of Winchester cathedral may be set down 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

as an epitome of English history and a full record would 
require a volume of stout dimensions. Abundant 
evidence is shown that the pile started with the 
Romans and followed on down through the Saxons, 
Normans, Plantagenets and Tudors to the present. 

Extensive repairs were going on during our visit 
and in the crypt workmen were mixing mortar using 
water from the ancient Roman well, more than a 
thousand years old and still with a full flow. 

Pile foundations dating back to the eleventh 
century were being removed and renewed. Some of 
these piles were in a perfect state of preservation, the 
wood being sound to the core. Various forms of relics 
are made from the wood and sold for the benefit of the 
church restoration fund. These relics are authorized 
and their genuineness guaranteed by the Bishop of 
Winchester. We bought several of the relics for 
souvenirs, among others a silver mounted inkstand, 
now in use in my den, and a cross given to Father 
Barry. All the relics are stamped. 

The cathedral was partially destroyed by Cromwell 
and his followers. The smashed stained glass was 
gathered up, saved and put into an immense window 
in its broken state, presenting a unique and dazzling 
composite appearance. 

The monuments, chantries and cenotaphs are too 
numerous to mention in detail, some of them are very 
odd, and would require the aid of a trained archaeologist 
to elucidate the hieroglyphics and various figures 
adorning the limbs. Among the notables buried are 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Jane Austin, the famous English authoress and Mrs. 
Montagu, the founder of "Blue Stocking Club". 

A mortuary chest contains the bones of Kings, 
Canute and William Rufus. Other mortuary chests 
contain the remains of King Edred, died A.D. 955, 
Edmund, died A.D. 946, King Egbert, died 837, King 
Kenulph, died 714, Kinegiles, A.D. 641 and last 
Ethelwulf, A.D. 857, father of Alfred the Great. 

The marriage of Queen Mary with Phillip the 
Second of Spain, was celebrated in Winchester cathe- 
dral, July, 1554 with great pomp and ceremony. The 
Queen wore a black dress, flashing with gems, with a 
mantle of cloth of gold. She had 4000 bridesmaids, 
described in the accounts as looking like Celestial 
angels. The King had 4000 groomsmen attending him. 
We were shown Queen Mary's chair in Bishop 
Langton's chapel, still in a good state of preservation. 
The wall paintings and frescoes are worthy of 
special mention. Some of them are very curious 
representations of Christ and his contemporaries. 

In the crypts are buried kings, princes and bishops 
of Saxon, Norman and later times. In one of the 
crypts is buried Izaak Walton, the prince of fishermen. 
The tomb has this inscription : — 

"Here resteth the body of 
Mr. Izaak Walton, 
Who died the 15th of December, 1683." ' 
"Alas — He's gone before, 
Gone to return no more 

Our panting breasts aspire 
After their aged sire." 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

A TENTH CENTURY ORGAN 

We saw this organ and it is still in use. The 
description of this old music box erected A.D. 984 by 
St. Ethel wold's cathedral is curious and copied in the 
guide. 

The chronology of the cathedral is of great in- 
terest. The religion was originally Catholic and is now 
of course, the Church of England. All around the 
main buildings, the ancient wall which bounded the 
precincts of the monastery is visible. 

WINCHESTER COLLEGE 

The oldest school in England is Winchester college, 
and still flourishing. It is a boys' school and so great 
is the pressure for admittance that immediately upon 
the birth and naming of a son, his name is entered upon 
the waiting list. 

The city of Winchester is a mine of historic value 
and I anticipate much pleasure in again visiting this 
ancient place. 

SALISBURY CATHEDRAL 

Salisbury cathedral is considered by many to be 
the finest cathedral in England. We spent a good part 
of an afternoon and the visit was all too short. The 
cathedral had the advantage of one architect in its 
completion at least and its perfect symmetry and 
proportions are apparent at a glance. 

The ground plan is that of a double cross of 
harmonious proportions, containing a lady chapel, 
presbytery choir, nave and transepts, with tower and 
spire. The cathedral is second only to St. Peter's of 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Rome in size. The very name of the architect is in 
doubt, according to the records. The spire is the 
loftiest in England. The sculpture in stone in the 
niches is worthy of special observation, representing as 
it does figures from the bible, and statues of Virgin, 
martyred cardinals, bishops and so on. The parables 
are worked out in stone. 

The interior of the cathedral is certainly a thing 
of beauty and a joy forever. The painted windows in 
the presbytery are somewhat secular in character. The 
twelve months of the year are represented thus : 

January - - A man warming his hands 

February -- Drinking wine 

March Digging 

April Sowing seed 

May Hawking 

June Plucking flowers 

July Reaping 

August - - - Threshing 

September Gathering fruit 

October Brewing 

November - Felling timber 

December - Killing the Christmas pig 
The memorial windows are many in number and of 
exceptional beauty and running through several cen- 
turies. The brasses and memorial tablets are many of 
recent date. 

The library contains over 9000 volumes and the 
monument room has in it a duplicate of Magna Charta. 
The monuments and burials are many, compar- 
atively modern and none of people of surpassing 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

greatness, just bishops and other noted men of great 
ability no doubt, but not of great fame or world wide 
renown. 

The cathedral impressed us as being almost 
modern in appearance, and lacking the apparent 
antiquity of Westminster Abbey, Winchester and other 
ancient and historic piles. A curious fact in connection 
with service in the cathedral came to our knowledge. 
It is said the Bishop of Salisbury of New Sarum cannot 
preach in the cathedral without the consent of the 
prebendaries. 

ROMSEY ABBEY 

We visited this ancient structure and found much 
of interest. The history of the Abbey dates from the 
ninth century. The name is believed to have its 
derivation from the word Rome and dates back to 
Roman occupation. Curious enough the pile is located 
on an ancient island, which is not visible to the observer. 
Queen Ethelberton was the founder in 907 and her 
grandson Eadgar, the Peaceable, completed the work 
and installed the nunnery and appointed St. Meriwenna 
the abbess five years later. The original number of nuns 
was one hundred. In 944 the place was destroyed by 
the Danes and the nuns fled to Winchester. Subse- 
quently the Abbey was rebuilt and added to as the 
centuries rolled on. 

The Romsey Rood is said to be absolutely unique. 
It is a life sized figure of Christ carved on stone and is 
more than 1000 years old, located in the exterior of the 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Abbey, evidently at one time a fine piece of sculpture, 
but now showing the effect of time rather than Eternity 
as originally intended. 

It is considered remarkable that this ancient cru- 
cifix was permitted to remain undemolished during the 
centuries of religious intolerance. There is a peal of 
eight bells in the choir. The tenor bell weighs 2600 
pounds. The other seven are over two hundred years old. 
The stone used in building came from the Isle of Wight. 

We were shown some interesting relics. A leaden 
coffin exhumed and unsealed in 1839. Nothing was 
found but a beautiful tress of auburn hair, centuries 
old but still in good condition. Also a piece of needle 
work, 400 years old, well preserved. We saw the tombs 
of the abbesses, the dates ranging through centuries. 
That the inmates of the nunneries of early days were not 
like Caesar's wife is quite evident and in time the 
nunneries were suppressed, the result of great scandal. 

Many of the inmates were the daughters of kings 
and princes and entering the nunnery while mere chil- 
dren were sought out while inmated as being wanted 
for wives. Many of the inmates were released and 
subsequently married. The history of abbey records 
the fact that there was much lack of discipline that the 
sisters were permitted, or at least were not prevented 
from going to town and drinking in the taverns. They 
were accused of drinking the sacristy wine and other 
breaches of decorum. Efforts were made by the 
authorities to reform it all but without success. The 
abbesses were changed, punishment was dealt out to 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

the delinquents, but all of no avail. The looseness was 
too great to control and the nunnery was suppressed in 
1539. 

After the suppression, the nuns scattered, some of 
them married, some entered other religious houses. 
The church was sold to the people of Romsey by 
Henry VII for 100 pounds. 



120 



CHAPTER XXIV— STONEHENGE— SALISBURY 

PLAIN— THE NEW FOREST— BOURNEMOUTH 

STONEHENGE 

TUESDAY, August 18, we went to Stonehenge, 
sometimes called the great Druidical temple. 
It is a mass of ruins in the shape of hewn stones, 
standing in the middle of Salisbury plain. Stonehenge 
is a mystery and its origin involved in obscurity. 
Various and divers reasons are given for the existence 
of these historic ruins, but to my way of thinking it is 
pretty much all guess work. 

We were particulary attracted by the Sacrificial 
stone, an immense block in a flat position, and if 
tradition is to be credited, thousands of human victims 
were immolated thereon, to gratify the lust and cruelty 
of some of our ancestors. The formation is all chalk 
so it is certain the stones were brought from a long 
distance. 

SALISBURY PLAIN 

Our visit to Stonehenge was cut somewhat short 
by the British guardian announcing that if we so 
desired we could see the British cavalry maneuvered. 
He handed us a powerful glass and we could see in the 
distance, apparently innumerable men on horseback. 
We bid the custodian adieu, ordered the chauffeur to 
put on full head of power, and in less than half an hour, 
we had overtaken the flower of the British cavalry, 
going through maneuvers and evolutions. I was quite 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

excited, jumped from the automobile, ran ahead and 
got too close and was politely ordered back, out of 
danger. 

We then witnessed a brilliant spectacle, the finest 
we had ever seen. Eight thousand, trained mounted 
soldiers, the horses various colors, black, bay and gray, 
the latter being the famous Scotch regiment. The 
sight was stimulating and inspiring. The whole was 
under the direction of General Smutz, a veteran of 
the Boer war. Some of the famous cavalry regiments 
in the British army were assembled, three regiments of 
the Household Cavalry Brigade, first one Second Life 
Guards, Royal Home Guards, Seventh Brigade, 16th 
and 21st Lancers and various other regiments of 
Dragoons. It was by a mere piece of good luck that 
we witnessed this splendid exhibition. Salisbury Plain 
is the British training ground, is about twenty -five 
miles square, and its contour of the ground particularly 
suited for military maneuvers. 

The evolution lasted about one hour, then all of a 
sudden the whole face disappeared over the hill as if by 
magic. We learned subsequently that this was the end 
of the sham battle and the enemy were in retreat. 
ANCIENT ROMAN CAMP 

We visited what is known as Vesasian's camp. 

I climbed up from the rear with much labor and 
some danger and found to my chagrin that had I gone 
to the opposite side of this a gradual ascent could have 
been made. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The camp is unique and the ancient earth-works 
would be still available. An army intrenched here 
could bid defiance to siege as long as provisions and 
water lasted. 

THE WHITE HART INN 

After our visit to the Roman camp we stopped in 
Salisbury at the White Hart inn, centuries old, famous 
for many reasons, among others, Mr. Pickwick was a 
guest and the inn is mentioned many times by Dickens. 

It is also a historic place, by reason of having 
entertained royalty on many occasions. 

We passed enroute on our return to Southampton, 
The Green Dragon, another Dickens hostelry. 
THE NEW FOREST 

Much of our remaining time was spent in the 
New Forest, a very old forest full of historic interest and 
dates back to the early centuries. It is filled with 
animal and bird life, quite thickly inhabited for a forest 
and little hamlets bob up on all occasions as one goes 
flying through the excellent roads, full of twists and 
turns, until one of the party remarked that you were 
likely to meet yourself on the same road almost any 
moment. And then one is apt to come across little 
historic inns. The first we saw was "YE TRUSTY 
SERVANT" named for a legend connected with 
Winchester cathedral. Near the inn is Winsted church, 
one of the four oldest in England. We were very much 
interested in this relic of former days and roamed 
around at our own sweet will, as the inevitable guide or 
caretaker was not in evidence. The church called 
''All Saints" has a decided charm. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

There is a very old square bowled font of the 
Norman sculpture. On one side are two adjuncts, 
containing family pews, fitted up like a small parlor. 
One has a fireplace and in the end is a three-deck gallery. 

We saw some very ancient and dilapidated banners, 
one of which had this inscription "NON OMNIS 
MONOR". 

The beauties of the Forest are varied, the scenery 
beyond compare, it is up hill and down dale, across 
running brooks. Trees and vines and heather and 
flowers in profusion, deer and game running wild and 
plenty of reason of the rigid game laws. Snakes are 
plenty and a professional snake killer is one of the 
attractions. 

Charcoal burning is one of the industries and a large 
part of the charcoal used in England for domestic and 
manufacturing purposes is produced in the New Forest. 

Bands of gypsies rove about, better dressed than 
the gypsies who visit America. As it is my intention 
in the future to visit this charmed spot and "do" it 
thoroughly, will leave it for the present, with delightful 
memories. 

WINBORNE MINSTER 

We visited this venerable edifice and were well 
repaid. With most places of the kind it dates back to 
Roman occupation. 

The crypt contains a number of ancient burials and 
effigies. Among others buried in the aisle are two 
daughters of Daniel Defoe, the author of Robinson 
Crusoe. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The church contains beautiful stained glass, some 
ancient and some modern. We visited the chain room, 
containing nearly 300 books each with a chain attached 
and padlocks. These books were used by the town 
people. There are some old books of interest. A 
History of the World by Sir Walter Raleigh, 1614, 
Burton's Anatomy of Melancholy and others. 

One of the curiosities of Winborne minster was the 

old beadle who was our guide. He had been connected 

with the place for over half a century. When through 

he directed us where his portrait could be purchased. 

CHRIST CHURCH PRIORY 

We visited this ancient religious house the day 
before starting for home. It is nine centuries old and 
commanded our attention at once. 
BORNEMOUTH 

We motored through this fashionable watering 
place, a seaside resort patronized by the best people in 
England. It can scarcely be compared to Atlantic 
City, but in some respects there is a resemblance. The 
Board Walk of Atlantic City is a concrete walk at 
Bornemouth, has a fine drive paralleling it while 
Atlantic City has no approach whatever to the ocean 
front except through the side streets. The scene was 
really a brilliant one. Perhaps ten thousand bathers 
were enjoying themselves and twice as many spectators 
looking on. The town contains many fine residences. 
Instead of rolling chairs as at Atlantic City, miniature 
carriages are driven about with donkeys. The place 
is much more exclusive and less cosmopolitan than our 
own and only Atlantic City. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

NETLY ABBEY 
One of the attractions of Southampton is the old 
abbey, but a short distance from the town, in ruins, 
but picturesque and interesting. We drove to this 
last historic place before leaving for home, and on the 
road our attention was attracted by a drinking fountain 
in the form of an obelisk with this inscription : 
"Bequeathed to the town of South- 
ampton by Mrs. Henrietta Bellenden 
Sayers, as an evidence of her care both 
for men and beast. Giving thanks for 
all things unto God". 
1890. 
We were obliged to cross by a ferry or floating 
bridge as it is called in England, to reach the ruins. 
We soon reached the very tasteful entrance lodge 
to Netly castle, paid the stipend demanded and entered 
the beautiful grounds. Just before entering, we noticed 
another drinking trough with this inscription : 
"Erected for watering horses of 
travelers by Colonel The Hon. H. C. 
Critchton of Netly Castle in memory 
of his mother Selina, Countess of Erne". 
Netly castle was originally built by Henry VIII, 
the materials having been taken from the ruins of the 
ancient monastery. It was also a fort garrisoned for 
defense. The plan of the abbey, appeared to be about 
the same as the other abbeys we visited, with separate 
secular and cloister portions, made in the form of a 
latin cross and in gothic style. 

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MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

The grounds contain many beautiful trees and the 
ancient stone work partly covered with creeping vines 
added to the picturesque appearance of this ancient 
pile. 

Some of these old monks have been a gay lot, as 
they are charged with neglecting to read the bible in 
the cloister service, charged with consorting with 
disorderly women and with admitting jovial com- 
panions to the monastery. 

The abbey was suppressed in 1537 and its posses- 
sion reverted to the crown. 

In excavating some years since the monks' dining 
room was discovered, which had been in use for three 
hundred years, the monks eating their coarse fare in 
humble silence from wooden trenches. 

We were shown some curious old foundation stones 
supposed to have been marked by the King and Queen 
when the foundation was laid seven hundred years ago, 
probably with great pomp and ceremony. 

The Ingoldsby Legends contain many romantic 
stones with Netly abbey as the background. 

We were impressed with the extent of the grounds, 
founded as history relates, in the thirteenth century. 
The ancient monastery belongs to the Cistercian 
Order of Monks, and dates back to 1075. The order 
came to England in the eleventh century. Domesday 
Book has a complete record of this. 



127 



CHAPTER XXV— LONDON— THE FINISH 

INNUMERABLE books have been written about 
London, and many more will be written, and still 
the half is not told. 

London is fascinating, it is interesting, it is unique 
in many respects and is particularly attractive to 
English speaking people. 

When we sailed from New York July 2, our in- 
tention was to spend at least half our time in Germany, 
France and Scotland. We remained over Sunday in 
Hamburg, spent a scant week in Berlin, journeyed 
direct from Berlin to London and never stirred outside 
of England until we sailed for home August 21 from 
Southampton. Three weeks of our time was passed in 
London and the remainder in rural England with 
Leicester and Southampton as starting places. London 
as is known, is the largest city in the world, and the 
capital of a country whose influence permeates all 
Christendom. 

The present population exceeds five millions and 
among the inhabitants may be found representations 
of every race and nation on the globe, not excepting 
our own American Indians. 

The first impression is bewilderment. I was afraid 
of getting lost, and until we got our bearings, patronized 
cabs and taximeters. However, before leaving, we 
walked much and used the stages and underground 
tramways, which run everywhere and apparently start 
nowhere. The cab system is wonderful. On a mo- 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

merit's notice, one can pick up a cab or taximeter, 
night or day, and the police regulations if understood, 
prevent extortion. 

The post office comprises a great system with 
branch offices conveniently located, apparently at 
almost every corner. The post office authorities handle 
the telegraph system and it is the custom to deliver 
telegrams anywhere in England, to the receiver, within 
thirty minutes from the time of filing. 

Hotels and boarding houses are thick and varied. 
Many of the new hotels are run for the special benefit 
of Americans, but there are hundreds of strictly 
English-kept hostelries, attractive, full of inconven- 
iences. There are many fine cafes and restaurants 
but we found none to excel and few equal, to the best 
places in New York. 

I was greatly impressed with the police and police 
system. The members of the force all look alike, are 
polite and curt in giving information and ubiquitous. 

In motoring through the country, the metropolitan 
police sewage system, up-to-date. I had read so much 
of London fogs that I was really anxious to see one, 
but fogs were not in season during our sojourn. 

"The season" is the great event in London and lasts 
about two months. Much gayety and frivolity and 
entertaining are compressed into this brief period, so 
that when it is all over everybody needs rest and 
recuperation. The contrast between the appearance 
of London and New York is striking. London looks 

130 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

and is old. The buildings have an ancient appearance, 
but no attempt is made to change this. Even the new 
structures have an antiquated look. 

The origin of the name "London" is somewhat 
obscure, but is supposed to be of Celtic origin. 

Remains of ancient military occupations are 
abundant, parts of walls, old wells and pavements are 
in evidence. To follow the history down from the 
known beginning until the present time, is intensely 
interesting. So many opportunities are afforded to 
obtain the information first hand, that I will not dwell 
upon the subject, suffice it to say that after three weeks 
of steady sight-seeing, we left a great deal for another 
visit, or series of visits, such as: 

The British Museum 

The London docks. 

The principal theatres 

The Bank of England 

The hospitals 

Many historic churches 

Crystal palace 

National portrait gallery 

The Hippodrome 

Zoological gardens 

Madame Tussands 

And last, but not least, 

The haunts of Dickens. 
As to rural England we left unseen the principal 
cathedrals, Oxford, the Yorkshire country and other 
historic localities, all of which, having been in existence 
for centuries will keep until subsequent visits. 

131 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

In our travels about England, we took the names 
of many of the inns on account of the curious nomen- 
clature. A list of the names is reproduced below : 

Ship and Turtle 

Three Nuns 

The Angel Inn 

The Green Dragon 

Horse and Jockey 

Stag and Pheasant 

Barley Mow 

The White Hart 

The Old Red Cow 

Stag and Hounds 

Swan with Two Necks 

Old Coach and Horses 

Flying Horn 

Wagon and Horses 

Bottle and Jug 

Elephant and Castle 

White Horse 

Twin Oak 

Sir John Barleycorn 

Ye Trusty Servant 

Wheat Sheaf 

Old Thatched House 

Cat and Fiddle 

Sailors' Return 

The Round of Beef 

Golden Cross 
Many of these inns were made famous by Dickens 
in his writings, more especially Pickwick papers. 

132 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

DICKENS' RELICS 
During our stay in London, and by correspondence 
since, I purchased the following Dickens relics and 
mementoes : — 

1. Twenty champagne glasses 

2. Water color drawing of the old White Hart 
inn. 

3. Print, Golden Cross Hotel, where Mr 
Pickwick first landed in London. 

4. Lithograph of the Blackeny factory where 
Dickens found first employment. 

5. Etched portrait-first proof. 

6. Twenty-five original water-color drawings 
Comprising the principal charac- 
ters in Dickens writings from Pickwick to 
Sampson Brass. 

We sailed on our return voyage from Southampton, 
August 21, on the good ship Amerika. The passage 
home was somewhat rough, but pleasant withal, and 
we were all glad when the ship landed and we were 
safely through the custom house. 



133 



A DAY IN WASHINGTON'S COUNTRY 
by Joseph G. Butler, Jr. 

EVERY patriotic American knows that the 
ancestors of the immortal George Washington, 
"first in war, first in peace, and first in the 
hearts of his countrymen", came from England; but 
few know the exact locality whence they came, and a 
still smaller number ever visited the region. While 
in England during the month of August last, I was 
attracted by an advertisement of one of the many tours 
running in all directions from London, "A DAY IN 
WASHINGTON'S COUNTRY." I immediately de- 
cided to make the journey to the places where the 
ancestors of our first President were born, where they 
lived, where they worshipped, where they died, and 
where they are buried. 

The day, August 18, was bright and pleasant. The 
train left Euston station, London, early in the morning 
with a special car attached for Northampton, eighty - 
two miles distant. From the extensive advertising 
given the excursion, I expected to have a score at least 
of Americans, as fellow travelers as anxious as I to visit 
the promised land. My surprise was great when it was 
made known to me that I was the sole excursionist, or, 
if I may so express it, the one American patriot 
mustered in for that particular day. However, I am 
pleased to add, the London & Northwestern Railway 
Company carried out the terms of the round-trip 
contract with the same exactness and fidelity as if the 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

party had been of large dimensions. Reaching North- 
ampton, a very competent guide met the train, and 
after a diligent quest, failed to discover the large party 
expected. 

I was taken through and around the historic town 
after which Northampton, Mass., is named — the home 
of one of our great American women's colleges. A 
word in passing about Northampton — a county borough 
under the government of a mayor and town council. 
The mayoralty is an ancient office, running back to the 
latter part of the twelfth century. Laurence Washing- 
ton, great-great-grandfather of George Washington, 
was mayor in 1533 and again in 1556, serving two terms 
at different periods. The town dates back to Roman 
occupation, and the remains of the ancient Roman wall 
are shown. The town is also mentioned in Domesday 
Book as Northamtone. Saxon, Dane and Norman 
successively occupied the territory and many events 
prominent in English history are associated and 
connected with the locality. Danes' camp is shown the 
visitor and Bishop Thomas a Becket's well is walled 
in and pointed out, where the great saint and martyr 
took a drink before his final flight, disguised as a monk; 
all of which is set forth in history and tradition. The 
place contains a number of ancient churches, two of 
which are quite noted, St. Peter's and All Saints', both 
dating from the twelfth century. I copied this inscrip- 
tion from the outside of the front wall of All Saints' 
church. 

136 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Here under lyeth 
John Bailes Born in this 

Town, he was above 126 
years old and had his hearing, 
Sight and Memory to ye last 
He lived in 3 Centurys, 
& was buried ye 14th of Apr. 1706 
I was shown two very ancient houses, one known 
as the Welsh house, and the other as Cromwell's house. 
I copied from the principal window in the Welsh House, 
this motto, in Welsh; 

"Heb Dyw, Heb Dym, Dwya Digon, i. e., 
1595." 
Which rendered into English reads: 
"Without God, without everything, God 
and enough." 
The Cromwell house is where Cromwell slept the 
night before the Battle of Naseby, which is commemo- 
rated by a fine monument erected over the battlefield a 
few miles distant. 

Among other noted places I saw "Queen Eleanor's 
Cross," about one mile from the town, erected by King 
Edward I in the thirteenth century, the main reason 
for the cross being to induce passers by to pause and pray 
for the eternal welfare of the soul of the beloved queen. 
There also is St. John's hospital founded in 1183, still 
in use and in good repair; and Abington abbey, dating 
from the fourteenth century and of particular historic 
interest by reason of its early ownership. Sir John Ber- 
nard married, for his second companion Elizabeth, the 

137 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

daughter of Susannah, Shakespeare's eldest daughter, 
the wife of Dr. Hall of Stratford -on -Avon; so that one 
of the descendents of the great Bard of Avon lived in the 
abbey as its last mistress. David Garrick, the great 
actor of the eighteenth century, planted a mulberry 
tree upon the lawn, which still lives, and produces fruit, 
and is duly authenticated by a bronze plate properly 
inscribed. 

Much space would be taken up in recording even 
a brief reference to the many historical places and 
incidents interwoven into the history of Northampton, 
and incidentally, into the history of England, so we 
pass on. 

After the tour through the town with the guide, 
we lunched at the George hotel, an ancient hostelry 
with a decided Dickens flavor. After luncheon, a 
large first-class automobile or motor, as it is called in 
England, was placed at my disposal. With a competent 
chauffeur and with the guide as a fellow passenger, the 
journey was resumed. 

Our first stop was at the little village of Ecton, 
five miles from Northampton, where was born Josiah 
Franklin, who married and emigrated with his wife and 
three children to New England in 1682. Dr. Benjamin 
Franklin was the youngest son of Josiah Franklin, by a 
second marriage. We found in the little churchyard a 
Franklin gravestone, inscribed as follows: 

HERE LYETH THE BODY OF THOMAS 
FRANKLIN, WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE 
JANUARY 6th, ANNO DOM. 1702, IN THE 
SIXTY-FIFTH YEAR OF HIS AGE. 

138 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

I saw the cottage where the ancestors of Franklin 
were born, still in good state of preservation. After 
the property was permitted to pass out of the hands of 
the Franklin family, the cottage was enlarged and made 
over into a school, and is still known as the Franklin 
school. During our Revolutionary troubles, Dr. 
Franklin spent much of his time in England and France, 
and always visited Ecton at each returning visit; but, 
notwithstanding these visits, the property and ancestral 
home were acquired by strangers. 

Our next halt was at Althrop house, the home of the 
Spencer family and famous for its magnificent collection 
of paintings, the gallery containing examples by Sir 
Joshua Reynolds, Gainsborough, Van Dyck, Holbein, 
Murillo, Raphael, Romney, Rubens and others of 
equal reputation. The Earl of Spencer had just died 
and his remains were lying in state at the time of the 
visit. As we passed through the churchyard, his grave 
was being dug, as it was his last request that he be 
buried alongside his wife, although all his ancestors are 
entombed in the nave of Great Brington church, dating 
back to the thirteenth century. The Spencer monu- 
ments are all in good condition and illustrate the 
costumes of the various periods. In this same church 
are buried members of the Washington family. In the 
chancel is a funeral slab, dedicated to the memory of 
Laurence Washington, who died in 1616, and at the 
foot of the slab are carved these lines : 

THOU THAT BY CHANCE OR CHOYCE 
OF THIS HATH SIGHT 

139 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

KNOW LIFE TO DEATH RESIGNS AS 

DAY TO NIGHT; 
BUT AS THE SUNNS RETORNE 

REVIVES THE DAY 
SO CHRIST SHALL US, THOUGH 
TURNED TO DUST AND CLAY. 
The slab was broken and part of the inscription 
was illegible, but the care-taker informed us that the 
death of Margaret Butler, wife of Laurence Washington 
was also recorded and that her remains were buried 
beside her husband. In any event, history records 
that this Laurence Washington's wife's maiden name 
was Butler. 

In the chancel is another memorial slab, recording 
the death of Robert Washington, brother of Laurence, 
and his wife, Elizabeth Washington, bearing this 
inscription : 

HERE LIES INTERRED YE BODIES OF 
ELIZAB. WASHINGTON WIDDOWE, 
WHO CHANGED THIS LIFE FOR IMOR- 
TALLITIE YE 19th OF MARCH, 1622 
AS ALSO YE BODY OF ROBERT WASH- 
INGTON GENT. HER LATE HUSBAND 
SECOND SONNE OF ROBERT WASHING- 
TON OF SOLGRAVE IN YE COUNTY OF 
NORTH ESQ. WHO DEPARTED THIS 
LIFE YE 10th OF MARCH 1622, 
AFTER THEY LIVED LOVINGLY 
TOGETHER. 
Robert Washington, as the monument shows, had 
a "Roosevelt" family, eight sons and nine daughters. 

140 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

Two of the sons became respectively Sir John Washing- 
ton, knight of Thrapston, and the Rev. Laurence 
Washington, rector of Purleigh Essex, whose eldest 
son, John, emigrated to America in 1657 and was the 
great-grandfather of George Washington, the President. 
Both the slabs referred to bear the Washington coat of 
arms, the distinguishing features of which are three 
mullets and two bars (stars and bars). 

In this connection a letter received from the 
rector of Great Brington church is copied or rather that 
portion referring to the Washington ancestry. The 
letter is in response to one I wrote asking for informa- 
tion as to the official parish records : 

Great Brington Rectory, Northampton, 19th 

August 1910. 
To Joseph G. Butler, Jr. 
Dear Sir: 

The only marriage entry of the Washingtons 
is that of Amy Washington to Philip Curtis, on August 
8th, 1620. Amy Washington was a daughter of Robert 
Laurence Washington who was buried on December 
15th, 1616 and his name is entered in the burial register. 
The only other Washingtons mentioned in our register 
are: 

Robert Washington, buried March 11, 1622, 
and, Elizabeth Washington his wife, buried March 25th, 
of the same year. 

In a church roll, which is in my possession, 
dated 1606, a pew is assigned on the south side to 
Robert Washington and his wife, and a bench inside 
for his men-servants. 

141 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

I am sorry I have no further information to 
give you respecting the family. 

Yours faithfully, 

William Martin, B. D. 
Rector of Brington. 
Thrapston is a small market town twenty-two 
miles from Northampton; our visit to this place was 
brief, but the information obtained is of value. 

Sir John Washington lived and was buried in 
Thrapston. He was the uncle of the two Washingtons 
who emigrated to and founded the Washington family 
in America. 

At the west entrance of the church of St. James, 
the well known coat of arms and crest are carved in 
stone. The parish register contains these records: 

BAPTISM. 

1624 PHILIPPUS WASHINGTON FILIUS 
JOHANN WASHINGTON ARMIGER 
DE THRAPSTON 27 DECEMBRIS. 

1632 ELIZABETH WASHINGTON, 
FILIA JOHANN WASHINGTON 
(KNIGHT) EQUITIS AURATI 
SEPULTA FRIT DIE JULY 1632 

1639 GUILIEMUS WASHINGTON GEN- 
EROSUS SELPULTUS ERAT 
MARTY 25, 1639 

1668 THE WRIGHT WORSHIPFUL SUR 
JOHN WASHINGTON, KNIGHT 
AND BARRENNIT MAY 18, 1668. 

142 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

We next motored to Little Brington, which contains 
and which we inspected, a small stone house, known as 
Washington's house. It is regarded as the home of the 
Washingtons after their, retirement from Sulgrave. 
Over the doorway, upon a smooth rectangular -shaped 
stone, are carved these words: "The Lord giveth, the 
Lord taketh away: Blessed be the name of the Lord. 
Constructa 1606." 

Near this house is a sundial, bearing the Washing- 
ton arms, and "R.W." 1617, probably the initials of 
Robert Washington, buried in Great Brington church 
chancel. 

We next visited the church of St. Mary's at 
Sulgrave. This is where the Washingtons worshipped, 
and are buried. At the east end of the south aisle is a 
slab of grey stone, on which were originally six brasses, 
put down as memorials of Laurence Washington and his 
family. Three of the brasses were removed or stolen 
by some unknown vandal and three remain, viz: 

Laurence Washington's own effigy, a shield of the 
Washington arms, and another containing the following 
inscription : 

HERE LYETH BURIED YE BODYS OF 
LAURENCE WASHINGTON, GENT. & 
ANNE HIS WYF BY WHOM HE HAD 
ISSUE iiij SONS & ij DAUGHTS WC LAU- 
RENCE DYED YE. . . DAY. . . ANO 15 & 
ANNE DECEASED THE VJ OF OCTOBER 
ANO DNI 1564. 

143 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

It would appear from the inscription that Laurence 
Washington put down the monument after the death 
of his wife and left a blank space for the date of his own 
death, which occurred in 1584; but this has not been 
added. 

Our final pilgrimage was to the famous Sulgrave 
manor, or, as it is now known, the Washington manor. 
The property is owned by Mr. Reynell Peck of Nether- 
ton, of whom more later on, and is leased to a farmer 
tenant, whose name I did not learn. The manor 
proper is occupied by the tenant and a large family. 
The caretaker is Miss Annia Cave, who apologized for 
her appearance by the statement that "the sweep'' had 
just finished his work. Chimney sweeps are still in 
vogue in some parts of England. Notwithstanding 
her begrimed dress and somewhat smutty face, Miss 
Cave was still a comely lass and proved an interesting 
mine of information, beside furnishing for a nominal 
consideration some fine photographs. 

The manor of Sulgrave was granted to Laurence 
Washington by Henry VIII in 1538, upon dissolution 
of the monasteries. Evidently more had been laid out 
and contemplated than was carried out. 

The manor is of stone and the interior is finished 
solid oak. Some of the beams which I measured are 
two feet thick, and in perfect condition. The old 
oaken stairway is shown in the picture, as well as the 
kitchen. The upper portions are all sleeping rooms 
and in good condition also. The particular room where 
was born Laurence Washington, the great-great-grand- 

144 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

father of President Washington, was pointed out, and 
probably the information is correct. 

On the lower floor are the remains of a room, 
evidently a private chapel, but now used as a hall. On 
each side of the wall appear carvings, which are illus- 
trated also. The house has a high gabled roof, upon 
the outside of which appear the arms of the Washing- 
ton family. If any doubt exists as to the origin of the 
American flag, this should dispel the suspicion, as it is 
repeated wherever the Washington family are in 
evidence, and always the same. 

There are a number of outhouses of stone and one 
very large barn, which, with the manor, are in fairly good 
repair, when it is considered that no one actuated by 
any particularly patriotic motive is connected with 
the property. 

It seems a strange anomaly that the birthplace of 
the ancestors of our first and greatest President, should 
be in the hands of aliens to America, and it at once 
occurred to me that the property should be acquired 
by one of our patriotic societies, put in proper condition 
and with an endowment fund sufficient to care for and 
maintain it for all time to come, making it a veritable 
shrine for all patriotic Americans visiting Europe. 

With this idea in mind, I obtained from Miss Cave, 
the address of the owner, and upon my return to 
London, I wrote him as to his willingness to dispose of 
the manor. I received a most courteous reply, indicat- 
ing that he would sell, adding that the estate had been 
in his family for many generations and he was not 
anxious to dispose of it. 

145 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

It is, therefore, my intention to bring the matter 
of a purchase or lease of the property to the attention 
of a number of our patriotic organizations, with the 
earnest wish that something definite may result 
therefrom. 

Our very able ambassador in London, Hon. 
Whitelaw Reid, is in sympathy with the suggestion and 
expressed his willingness to co-operate, and I shall be 
glad, in my humble way, to assist in securing the estate 
both by giving the project my personal attention and 
by a liberal contribution. 

The Sulgrave Institution was authorized at a 
meeting of the Board of Managers of the Sulgrave and 
the Centenary Committee held at the American Embas- 
sy in London, March 7, 1914. The Committee out of 
which the Institution was 'created was organized on 
February 11, 1909. The Institution was incorporated 
under the laws of the State of New York on the 8th of 
November, 1917. 



146 



MY FIRST TRIP ABROAD 

BOARD OF GOVERNORS OF THE SULGRAVE INSTITU- 
TION OWNERS OF THE WASHINGTON MANOR HOUSE 
SULGRAVE NORTHANTS ENGLAND 

Honorary Chairman and Member ex-Officio: 
H. E. The American Ambassador 

(The Hon. George Harvey) 
Marquess of Crewe, K. G. 
Earl Curzon of Kedleston, K. G. 
Earl Spencer, K. G. 
Viscount Bryce, O. M. 
Viscount Burnham 
Viscount Cowdray 
Viscount Northcliffe 
Lord Weardale 
Lord Rathcreedan 
Sir W. George Watson, Bt. 
Sir Sidney Lee, D. Litt. 
Sir Harry Brittain, K. B. E., M. P. 
Sir Sam Fay 

Consul-General R. P. Skinner 
The Mayor of Northampton 
Mr. Joseph G. Butler, Jr. 
Mr. W. Curtis Demorest 
Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan 
Gen. T. Coleman Du Pont 
Mr. John A. Stewart 
Major-General Leonard Wood 
Mr. Robert Donald 
Mr. J. L. Garvin 
Mrs. John W. Davis 
Lady (Arthur) Herbert 
Lady Lee of Fareham 
Mrs. Woodhull Martin 
Lady Rathcreedan 
Countess of Sandwich 

147 



